Tuesday, September 7, 2010

I Take It Back

 
I admit it. I was wrong. And so I take back what I said about the unsuitability of the cotton suit. It does have a place, even though the economics remain a bit questionable (cotton has the same tailoring cost as wool and a much shorter life). In an eight ounce weight with 10-15% cashmere it is smooth, lightweight and warmer wearing than I had ever expected, making it a nice choice for casual shoulder season days with temperatures in the 60s (perhaps 18 degrees C).

Eight ounce cloth is something I eschew in wool as it wrinkles easily without being particularly cool. But in cotton, a few wrinkles are part of the character. They help a suit to fit in when it is worn in the suburbs, for example, where suits are rare. And cotton does not seem inclined to any more of them than wool of the same weight.

Try it in tan, navy, olive or dark brown. Gray would be a step too far.

In the photo, Matteo Marzotto in dark brown cotton.

4 comments:

seitelman said...

I had a cotton suit made with Loro Piana 100% cotton. I also had one with Loro Piana seersucker.

My attitude toward cotton suits is "been there, done that." A cotton suit is not high on my wish list of garments for next summer.

A cotton suit is nice, but it is more a disposable garment than a wool suit. It wrinkles and loses its shape. It's good for a business casual environment. However, I do not find it particularly cooler than a tropical wool suit.

Therefore, I think that it is a little improvident to spend $3,000-$4,000 with a Savile Row type tailor. On the other hand, you may not get much use out of it, and it will last for years. I know a chap who had a seersucker sportscoat made at Davies in 1994, and it still looks great. I personally would use a less expensive maker, such as LS Mens Clothes of NYC, where you can make a suit MTM for about $1,000 with either Loro Piana or Holland & Sherry cotton.

If you have a large and varied wardrobe, go for a cotton suit. If not, stick with the business classics, such as tropical wool, fresco, or mohair.

Tonyp said...

I agree with seitelman. I have some cotton sportcoats that I love as a casual choice in the office on a Friday or a lunch or casual dinner but the suit is not something I would opt for. I prefer a summerweight wool suit.

Charles said...

It looks like the suit in the photo has a ticket pocket with a flap but jetted hip pockets -- a bit unusual, isn't it?

I wonder how many buttons are on each sleeve....

Will said...

Or, perhaps more likely, the side pockets have the flaps tucked.

 
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