For me, one of the highlights of the visiting tailor season is always Joe Hemrajani's trip to San Francisco. That occurred this week, which gave us both an opportunity to indulge our fondness for talking shop. Joe offers tailored clothing of course, in addition to the usual shirtmaker offerings, and most of our discussions revolved around the progress his shop has made in that area.
Chatting done, we managed to get my order in for a couple of shirts, including a light blue check in a DJA twill and one from Thomas Mason's gray and wine linen that will sit on my shelves until warmer weather returns next spring. Not that we had any of that this past season. And then we added a couple of the shirtmaker's typical line extensions, those being a pair of gray linen pajamas and a brown moleskin shirt jacket.
Regular readers may recall that I like to wear unlined and unpadded shirt jackets on the weekend. In blue tweed or linen they serve on slightly more formal occasions, like trips to some of our more obscure California wineries that may not have seen an odd jacket since the vines went into the ground. The rest of the time the brown and tan versions suffice for errands such as runs to the car wash.
Joe is unique among the shirtmakers I know in that his tailoring operations give him the ability to work with heavier cloth, unlike others who may literally be unable to sew a 21 ounce moleskin. And this is cost effective for, without padding and lining, a shirt jacket is all machine sewing which does not require the services of a conventional tailor. And that may save a few dollars, which helps pay for the requisite caps and neckerchiefs that are a part of the look. But I digress....
Thursday, September 9, 2010
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4 comments:
Will,
Loved you cufflinks post. Please expound upon the wearing of enamel links.
That is a very fine shirt collar Joe is wearing, ideal for his facial features: a medium spread collar with zero tie space and a decent collar point length so that the points remain concealed under his suit lapel - all contributing to a confidently crisp definition. What I like most is how the angle the collar point makes with the vertical exactly matches that made by the gorge seam in his jacket.
I've got the feeling that your point was lost because the picture was far too interesting. It's a new form of ADD for us in our late forties....
Great coat! Incredible what gray trousers and a gray houndstooth black knit tie can do... Pink shirt or are the colors on my screen way off?
I like the the other gent's presentation, but your's just looks Steve McQueen cool..
Thank you ICG. The shirt is a small burgundy graph check on cream that looks pinkish from a distance.
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