Thursday, September 16, 2010

An Odd Jacket Ensemble

Odd jackets and informal suits are the appropriate opportunity to indulge in color and pattern, in my opinion, and today's photo illustrates it done to what my taste considers near-perfection. Two patterns and four colors plus white make for an elegant and slightly unexpected combination using the classic menswear colors of blue, gray and tan.

To begin, the striped shirt is juxtaposed against a checked jacket but the patterns are of different scales and work together. And the color of the shirt's stripe is picked up by the jacket's check even though the two are but distant relations rather than immediate family. Needless to say, the white of the shirt ground is enhanced by the pocket square of the same color (after all, the frequency with which white appears in shirts is what led to the ubiquity of the white linen square). The jacket's tan ground stands alone, relating to nothing above the waist (though viewed from afar I would not be surprised to see a pair of tan bluchers on the wearer's feet).

The secret to this combination is the necktie, in what appears to be gray wool or cashmere. Like the jacket's ground, the gray relates to nothing else above the waist, though it tones somewhat with the check. And because it relates to nothing, it gives the ensemble the air of ease that I mention so often.

It may have taken time to assemble the combination in the photo, but the result looks as though it took no time at all.

Photo: Sciamat

10 comments:

David Toms said...

Love this combination. I have a DAKs jacket very siliar, so will now have to adopt this look for autumn.

Colin said...

I completely agree, this is a great combination. However, I'm at a loss when attempting to pair pants with this odd jacket and shirt. Will, what would you do?

Will said...

Colin, gray flannel in a shade lighter than the necktie would be the easy choice.

jonathan said...

How about a solid white, separate collar to the shirt, all else remaining as is?

Will said...

A white collar, detachable or not, with a colored shirt body is great with a morning coat or stroller and OK with a dressy suit. But wearing one with tweed would have no basis in the past, if that matters to you.

Horatio said...

That is an extraordinary breast pocket on that jacket. I could see the right shade of grayish mid-blue trousers working with this jacket as well.

jonathan,

I find that a white contrast collar is a more formal look most appropriate for suits, though I could also see it with a navy blazer. Similarly, I feel that the dressiness of French cuffs are best for suits (or a blazer).

Which is not to say that you couldn't pull off a contrast collar with an odd jacket--it'd just be harder. (Will's red gingham shirt with contrast collar might work with this jacket--but then again, it might not.)

Tomo said...

Love the way it's shaped. Who made it?

Julian said...

That's one of the more restrained offerings from that tailor.

Garzo said...

I love the combination of colours and patterns here. This is a look I would love to wear, with grey flannel trousers, definitely. I wouldn't usually go for the bold stripes of the shirt, but the beautiful jacket and tie somehow make it work. I remain a die-hard wearer of odd jackets, so thanks for this.

Raf said...

I've been following your blog for a few years now. Since I've seen this post, I look back to it for inspiration every so often. So elegant, so nonchalant.

 
Blog Widget by LinkWithin