James Sherwood's Bespoke: The Men's Style of Savile Row is a 5 1/2 pound (2.5 kilo) coffee-table sized book and that is all the better to show off the wonderful photography. A mixture of the familiar, some rarely-seen older shots and contemporary work by Guy Hills and others, Bespoke is a visual treat. And, oh yes, it also continues the Row's recent efforts to market itself with the story of the usual tailoring subjects, from Ede & Ravenscroft to Timothy Everest.
Though there is a two-page spread on the making of a suit, Bespoke is about style, tailors and the men who wear, or wore, the clothes rather than the making of them or how to dress well. And, after decades of "how to dress" books, that is a mildly refreshing change. It is in this case better to see a photo of a model wearing a contemporary Anderson & Sheppard smoking jacket embroidered spectacularly by London's Hand & Lock than to be told once again that the smoking is worn only at home or at one's club.
The book's 256 pages are organized into sections, each providing read-it-already information on subjects ranging from royal customers to film star customers and accompanied by profiles of several of the tailors that best represent the topic (I hadn't heard of two of the firms mentioned but Terry Haste and John Kent may be on the outs as they are not). Of course, it would be virtually impossible to write completely original material when a significant fraction of the firms involved in the project have already published books about themselves and the material is well presented.
Carrying a $65 list price (already discounted to $40.95 on Amazon) in the United States, Bespoke should be part of the library of everyone interested in classic men's clothing. Immediately following its purchase, the most dedicated followers of style will no doubt be inquiring about smoking jacket embroidery by Hand & Lock.
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6 comments:
I own this book (the English edition, with a different cover, much more stilish in my humble opinion) and I agree with you, Will.
It´s a great book, with great photographs and may be not too much new information, but relevant in the case of some less known houses.
And yes, the double page photograph of the Gieves&Hawks dinner suit, smoking jacket and military inspired jacket is stunning.
Wasn't there a "A Suitable Wardrobe" book in the horizon some time ago? Or is that project stalled?
(Ordered "Bespoke" immediately, of course.)
JCS
> I hadn't heard of two of the firms mentioned but Terry Haste and John Kent may be on the outs as they are not
I believe that at the time of writing "Kent Haste & Lachter" was still not incorporated.
Terry worked from countryside (so, not Savile Row), and John was still recovering from an illness. As for Stephen... well, he is a mere shirtmaker, not worthy of a mention in "Savile Row" book. :-)
Thank you for the recommendation, Will. It sounds very enjoyable, I shall add it to my collection.
Will, here's what could my eye: the second photograph in the book is a two page spread of a Dege & Skinner cutter striking a pattern.
The photographic composition is gorgeous. But the pressing of the cutter's shirt, particularly the sleeve placket and the french cuffs, is atrocious. Don't know why I would immediately spot that. Suppose, we all have our biases.
Stu
I Love this book. Truly enjoyable and I am only on the second chapter!
Elijah Rock
www.elijahrock.net
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