It is most noticeable when the summer clothes are in storage and cool weather things hanging in their place but fall is patterned. While summer things tend towards solids in lighter colors, fall is the time for a variety of checks as well as large herringbones like the black and white one in the Esquire illustration.
These patterns are mostly the influence of the Scots, if you will, and for several reasons. The first is Scotland's influence on British style, stemming from the evolution of the black and white shepherd's plaid into the broad range of tweed designs intended to blend into the Scottish countryside. And, secondly, it is cold in Scotland so those patterns tend to be worn in the fall and winter. Finally, though I do not know what they do in India and China these days, the best textiles have always been woven in colder climates with pure and very cold water with which to finish the cloth. And so the mills weaving suiting cloth in Britain tended to be located in Scotland.
Now I grant you that the patterns in most business suits are more subdued than today's herringbone, but that has as much to do with the "nothing too bold or it might not sell" inclination of the large retailer as it does the understandable desire of the businessperson to dress in clothes that will not get in the way of concluding a business transaction. But that should not rule out the chalk stripe or the glen check, and away from the office there is no reason to limit one's choices.
For fall is patterned.
Monday, October 18, 2010
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7 comments:
Reid and Taylor from Scotland used to weave some of the
finest multi-patterned cloth in the world.The last offering I saw from them was in 2009 when Scabal marketed a range of cloths under the title Silver Gander.They truly were the Rolls Royce of cloth manufacturers.
I notice this double breasted suit has a vest. One used to see this a lot, as can be seen in movies from the 30's and 40's. You have never written a day exclusively on DB vested suits which might be a good idea. Adolphe Menjou wore them in the movies in which he starred.
Will,
Not long ago you told me that a navy blazer is appropriate to wear with black shoes in the evening. Would it be equally appropriate to do the same with a black and white checked odd jacket?
Franklin,
Absolutely. That is about the only color jacket besides navy that is appropriate for evening in the fall, and calls for black shoes.
Thanks for taking the time to respond, Will. You have enlightened me once again.
Will,
Regarding the wearing of black shoes in the evening with a navy blazer or black and white checked odd jacket, could you give examples of the styles of shoe you would wear, at both the higher and lower ends of the formality spectrum? And, while I'm here, thank you for such an informative blog.
I tend to wear either a pair of three eyelet bluchers or elastic sided slipons with some brogueing.
Oxfords are not out of the question but they are a little formal for odd jackets. Other black slipon styles could also be worn but that doesn't tend to be a very useful shoe in my opinion.
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