Thursday, October 28, 2010
D. José María Reille is President of the Tailor's Club in Madrid, an organization of 25 of Spanish tailoring's leading lights, as well as one of the city's best regarded practitioners. And that is no mean feat. The best Spanish tailoring is of the highest quality, something that is most visible in the dress of the Spanish royal family.
Reille's suits run 2,000 to 3,000 euros (US $2,700-$4,200), less expensive than prices for London's best and considerably better than the New York shops. Like the tailors of Naples, the tailors of Madrid also invest 25-50% more time in each garment. That means more handwork and generally better detailing in each piece.
In the photos, a gentleman with the nom de plume of El Aristocrata is fitted by Reille for a suit of Harrisons of Edinburgh Premier Cru worsted weighing 11 ounces/330grams. It is comprised of a single breasted jacket and a double breasted vest. Much of the detailing is not visible in the photos of course but for example, the vest has two tabs that button it to the trousers so that it rides on the body without exposing the shirt.
From my limited experience with Madrid tailoring, the only thing holding back that city's practitioners from greater acceptance on a larger stage is that, like most Neapolitans, they do not travel to their customers. But in an era where men who prefer bespoke clothing increasingly are forced to travel to obtain it anyway, Madrid's relatively easy air access is likely to help it grow in tailoring importance.