D. José María Reille is President of the Tailor's Club in Madrid, an organization of 25 of Spanish tailoring's leading lights, as well as one of the city's best regarded practitioners. And that is no mean feat. The best Spanish tailoring is of the highest quality, something that is most visible in the dress of the Spanish royal family.
Reille's suits run 2,000 to 3,000 euros (US $2,700-$4,200), less expensive than prices for London's best and considerably better than the New York shops. Like the tailors of Naples, the tailors of Madrid also invest 25-50% more time in each garment. That means more handwork and generally better detailing in each piece.
In the photos, a gentleman with the nom de plume of El Aristocrata is fitted by Reille for a suit of Harrisons of Edinburgh Premier Cru worsted weighing 11 ounces/330grams. It is comprised of a single breasted jacket and a double breasted vest. Much of the detailing is not visible in the photos of course but for example, the vest has two tabs that button it to the trousers so that it rides on the body without exposing the shirt.
From my limited experience with Madrid tailoring, the only thing holding back that city's practitioners from greater acceptance on a larger stage is that, like most Neapolitans, they do not travel to their customers. But in an era where men who prefer bespoke clothing increasingly are forced to travel to obtain it anyway, Madrid's relatively easy air access is likely to help it grow in tailoring importance.
Posts
8 comments:
"Reille's suits run 2,000 to 3,000 euros (US $2,700-$4,200), less expensive than prices for London's best and considerably better than the New York shops."
2,000 to 3,000 Euros is still on a Savile Row level and what you're getting is, no offence, a Spanish suit. It just isn't the same thing. You can get excellent bespoke suits in the City of London (without the glitz and the snobbery of the Row) for less than £1000.
I don't believe I have ever before seem more than one wildly inaccurate assertion in the confined space of a single comment. Congratulations.
It would be interesting to see what are the differences between a spanish and Savile Row level suit brought you to that conclusion WinstonC. I would be surprised if you had the opportunity to compare both, especially if you are considering the level of worksmanship discussed for this particular spanish suit.
Wildly inaccurate?
"2,000 to 3,000 Euros is still on a Savile Row level"
2,000-3,000 Euros = £1,800 - £2,700
Not all tailors on the Row charge as much as Huntsman and Henry Poole.
What you are getting IS a Spanish suit. It's made in Spain.
And you can get excellent bespoke suits in the City of London for less than £1000. I think you'll find that the basic economic principle of greater supply equalling lower prices applies. There are great numbers of tailors in London.
How that is wildly inaccurate I'll never know.
Secondly, on the point of the Spanish suit.
I have not compared a Spanish suit to a Savile Row suit but I know the latter very well. My point about it 'not being the same thing' was meant as a commercial point, not a point about the quality or the hours put into the suit - which I read from the article as being considerable. The commercial point is: are enough people going to pay that much for a suit from a nation that is nowhere near as world-famed for it's tailoring?
People that can afford that will probably prefer the Row because of the snob value of it; former clients, bigger name etc.
I think both of you have reacted very defensively perhaps because you misunderstood my meaning. I never castigated the quality of the suit or the tailor but simply the pricing structure which while realistic for the hours involved, might not get the relevant market to part with their cash.
Oh please. I have suits from four of the tailors generally considered the best in the Row and it sounds like you have not. I looked closely at a bespoke suit by Gallo four years ago and it sounds like you have not. The Spanish cut was as good and the sewing better. I'd have started buying there then if I had any regular reason to go to Madrid.
Secondly, the good tailors on the Row charge 2,200 pounds and more, (perhaps 500 pounds more than Madrid for the same cloth). The better guys around the Row pay the same for cloth and for outworkers, and have to charge the same to make a living. Your thousand pound suit guy cannot be spending 400 on cloth and giving you anything of equivalent quality.
Finally, who cares about the name of the maker unless you are wearing your label on your sleeve?
I've always believed that very good quality tailoring exists in other parts of Europe...I can't speak about the Row, but I've had an excellent suit made from a tailor in Spain from my time there.
I find a particular appeal and fascination of having a suit made from different countries. If you have the chance to spend some time, check around for a reputable tailor (they all have English cloths, anyway, and usually wince if you mention Loro Piana).
On very rare occasions when my British colleagues comment on how elegant the suit is I reply, "thank you, guess they're still getting back at you about the Armada..."
I believe there is no real point in starting any battle here.
My only advice for WinstonC would be to check one of our main tailors´ suits and compare them to those that he considers to be the best ones. Just take a look to the sewing and then come back to me again with your feedback.
If a suit, at least those made by the tailors I am familiar with, takes easily around 60-70hours and you pay a fair salary (we give for granted that slavery does not apply any more at least in the countries we are talking about), there is no way to have a real bespoke suit for the prices you are mentioning here.
Finally, I would like to point out that Spain not only now but historically, has been a much poorer country than the United Kingdom or the United States. This has obliged us to keep doing things by hand where in most develop countries machines were taking care of such small things. This is why Spain has a very long tradition on hand made suits.
EA
How do you like the Premier Cru with the cashmere mix?
Post a Comment