By Jonathan Lai
W.W. Chan is perhaps the largest of the three houses reviewed in our exploration of Hong Kong style, and the only one to have a dedicated website. They tour the United States three times a year (March, July and November) and have begun visiting London. Having a Chan suit made on-tour involves a thorough measurement of one’s best-fitting garment, a body measurement, and a "smock" measurement: the measure of a large, bed sheet of a garment that is subsequently pinned down and meant to replicate the general tightness and shape of a properly-fitting jacket. Basted fittings are available upon request and are highly-recommended. Bespoke suits always require some adjustment and a fitting is the most expeditious way to have them made.
Chan has a higher default for its lapel notch than the other houses and takes the most cues from Italian and British counterparts. The silhouette is cut close at the waist with a wasp-like nip. The chest is somewhat swelled. The shoulders, which want for a natural line, are lightly padded and come standard with an oddly clean "spalla camicia." This shoulder treatment, where the arm is "tucked" under the scye at the shoulder seam, found its way into the house style approximately a year and a half ago. The fullness in the shoulder tapers to a particularly narrow arm that is almost tubular from elbow to wrist. The trousers sit just below the natural waist and take a slight taper in the leg.
Chan's finish level is excellent, and has been elevated in recent years. The pick stitching on the garment is neater, cleaner and more abundant than in either the Baromon or Yao garments. Chan suits also come standard with horn buttons, whereas the other houses use plastic exclusively. The level of quality and an amiable compliance with even the most outlandish requests are good reasons to see Chan, though those who wish to supply their own cloth for CMT (cut make trim) should look elsewhere as the house does not accept third-party cloth.
Of the three houses, Chan’s style is the most modern, with a marked international influence and a default aesthetic that would satisfy a younger clientele.
W.W. Chan Limited
A2, 2/F., Burlington House
94 Nathan Road
Kowloon, Hong Kong
Telephone: (852) 2366 9738
Website: www.wwchan.com
Contact: sales@wwchan.com
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6 comments:
If the waist suppression was eased a bit, this would be my favorite.
I like the natural shoulder, but I prefer a roped sleevehead. Is that something one might ask Chan to do, or would I be best off finding a tailor who already does exactly what I want?
Great series; very enjoyable read. Just curious: any particular reason why A-man did not make the line-up?
Chan does a roped sleevehead as well as the spalla camicia.
Jon did not cover Ah Man as he does not have a suit by them. They remain of course among the very best HK tailors.
Which fabric is this? I quite like it...
The fabric is Scabal Four Seasons navy pinstripe in Super 120s (#751258).
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