Shoes are not made the same way in Italy and England. The way I heard it, Goodyear welting never took off in Italy for the simple reason that Goodyear never had a salesperson assigned there. But however it may have happened, the English, and the Americans for that matter, usually attach sole to upper using the aforementioned Goodyear welt and the Italians use either Blake or Blake/Rapid construction most of the time.
Now, as one might expect, the two methods are reasonably well aligned with the countries themselves. Goodyear construction is heavier, which is good for the cold, and water resistant, which is good for the wet. Blake is lighter, which is good for the heat, and considerably less expensive, which lends itself to fashionable, short lived shoes (Blake/Rapid is actually closer to Goodyear in terms of its characteristics but let us not let facts get in the way of an otherwise perfectly clear comparison).
Now, like almost everyone who was raised to the Northwest of Milan, I am prejudiced towards Goodyear construction. Blake/Rapid definitely has its place for summer shoes and a couple other applications but there is no better shoe than one that is side channeled and Goodyear welted by hand.
Sole attachment techniques aside, the best Italian shoes may be a bit better made and certainly are a bit better finished than English shoes at roughly the same price point. And that is why I have been looking forward to my first pair of Goodyear welted but Italian-made shoes, sourced in Florence by my friend Francesco. Slipons with hand-stitched aprons they are, and I may need to add a brogued pair of the same design. And some more hand-stitched aprons, monkstraps this time, in some sort of textured calf.
Goodyear lasted in Florence. It is a whole new world.
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10 comments:
where you referring to RTW makers?? Because there are several bespoke makers in Florence of whom all use the goodyear-welt construction to make their shoes.
Who would want to walk on those beautiful soles?
Touchy subject.
Half breed that I am... I prefer southern european tailors but English and American shoemakers... Bluebloods aghast. I've never gone bespoke English, much less bespoke American as far as shoes go, but I have been consistently disappointed with Italian shoes.
Yes, they're pretty. But I'm still hoping to find a pair of Italian shoes I like. Craftsmanship is so hard to generalize, I can't say one is better.
Hence, your point, Will, is Italian for Summer and Anglo American for the winter? I agree wholeheartedly.
But Formula 1 races are won or lost on their tyres...and shoes, to me, have to live forever and look better with each passing year- rain or shine.
Please let us know the results. I'm very curious to read your final opinion.
Nice looking Will. I also have been disappointed by Italian shoes in the past, but am always open to change that view. Who makes them?
They are a sample for an ASW shoe. If I offer it it will be because it is comparable to the Northampton makers.
A friendly reminder that Milan is at roughly the latitude of Maine, North Dakota, and Oregon, so most of us (U.S.) Americans were raised west and south of Milan.
If you offer this shoe in cordovan I will drop half a month's salary just to get a pair. These are gorgeous.
I always wondered about the bizarre nomenclature used by the Italians.
Even the bespoke shoe makers call their handsewn shoes "Goodyear welted".
Paolo, Goodyear is a method as well as a machine. Bespoke shoemakers in every country do it by hand becasue that makes for the best welt.
Don't hold out on me, Will, bring them in!
I have signed up for, and posted, my first blog entry announcing the trunk show. I will be posting my schedule each week on the blog site for those who want an easy way to find me.
More importantly, I want to touch those shoes!
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