Monday, December 27, 2010

Black and Tan

It may be my favorite pairing, that being the combination of black and tan (here we are speaking of course about the colors rather than the alcoholic beverage though I suppose that has many admirers of its own). Costume designer Jenny Beavan uses it to good effect (the colors, not the drink) in the scene from the film The King's Speech, where Colin Firth is rather cruelly sent out into the cold in what appears to be a coat made from cloth too lightweight to keep him from freezing. He may not have even known that he was at risk from an anachronism, but I digress.

Now when it comes to wearing it with black hat, scarf and gloves, this particular lightweight coat has an advantage over its camel colored relations, and that is the hint of taupe that reduces the otherwise stark contrast. A similar effect is achieved when the black in a necktie, for example, has a little white or cream in it, as in microdots, to help soften its impact. But with or without that help a tan suit, white shirt and a black necktie are in summer an equally handsome way to present oneself to the world.

Tan or camel coats are to me best worn over gray suits for similar reasons. Gray is the other good background for black accessories, and an equally fine complement to tan (it has always been a puzzle to me that ecru shirtings are not worn more often). 

Black and tan. It is not just a beverage.

Photo: The King's Speech

8 comments:

Brummagem Joe said...

Will: the other great combo of course is the black tailcoat with db tan vest and black tie with white/silver accents; tunic shirt in lilac or blue stripe with detachable white spread collar; striped pants; and black oxfords.

Brummagem Joe said...

Will as a little addendum to that I've always understood it was a bit of a faux pas to wear a white shirt with a tan summer suit or with tan chinos. Hence I've alwas gone for blue or pink solids, checks or stripes. I guess I'll take a look at the white/black pairing you suggest. You're certainly right about ecru shirts and blacks/greys. Black brogue shoes also look great with dark brown flannel.

Davidikus said...

My grandfather used to say that black & brown is a fashion faux-pas. Black & beige / tan works better and it is less dull. (I would be interested to see whether the Duke of Edinburgh, which typically follows old fashioned French advice on clothes would wear black & brown or black and tan).

Anyhow, I would always try something to refresh that sort of combination, though. For example, I mostly use this combination with a patterned jumper (that happens to be in black & tan).

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Lucas said...

Will,
With the combination you describe -- tan summer suit, black tie with dots, white shirt -- what color shoes?

Will said...

Usually tan.

Horatio said...

Ecru can look as though it's just a dingy white, rather than its own color. Perhaps that accounts for part of its lack of popularity. It also fails to flatter many men--another reason, no doubt.

I'm not a fan of black and any shade of brown, but black and just the right shade of taupe can work. The coat in the photo seems to be that shade.

Brummagem Joe said...

Rather coincidentally I received a late present in the mail yesterday of a tan scarf with black overcheck (small anount of red). Note also the Queens hat in your pic which is light beige with black feather. Your point is made Will!

Will C. said...

The men's costumes in this movie were disappointing with all those heavy-breaked trousers. It not only looks bad but is also ahistorical, a glance at any photo reveals they didn't wear such heavy break in the 30s.

 
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