Only generalities apply because the market for squares is relatively small and the number of staple patterns limited. For few men other than those in the clothing business or owning art galleries can wear patterned silks in their worsted suit jackets without attracting the suspicion of other men that perhaps they should be selling antiques or something. And that is a dangerous road to go down.
No, white linen is the staple of worsted suit wearers everywhere. Only the French, the Italians and a few Americans will so much as wear linen with colored borders and I doubt that any true Englishman would be caught with one in public.
Really, the opportunity for other types of squares lies principally with flannel and with tweed jackets, where the gleam of silk complements the matte finish of the woolen cloth and the wool or cashmere necktie that often accompanies it. Here a man can wear that navy dotted square, the full palette of paisleys, and other patterns as well from makers such as Hermes, Drakes or Rubinacci. Hermes aside, there are not many of those to choose from, for, as Michael Drake once told me, a maker has a fairly substantial price to pay to the designer to make the first square and then sells only a few relatively inexpensive pieces each year to slowly get his money back. And thus, instead of new designs on a regular basis, the best of the old, like Drake's Moghul prints, are re-issued periodically to a new crowd of purchasers.
Returning to the practicalities of filling a drawer with pocket squares for a moment, it probably takes at least six white linen handkerchiefs to start a collection. Look for the ones that are 48 cm (16 1/2 inches) on a side so they stand up in a pocket, and have enough so that there is always a fresh one waiting for its call. Then consider silks of the same size, starting with that dotted navy, continuing through at least two paisleys in colors that match nothing in one's necktie wardrobe and finishing with one or two of the Hermes/Rubinacci/Drake prints. Advanced dressers may look for another one or two patterns in wool or cashmere though they should be forewarned that those may get the least wear as they should only be paired with silk neckties and odd jackets.
After that, fill the drawer as you please.
Posts
15 comments:
I used to collect squares like mad, delighting in wearing all sorts of dandy patterned silks. But those days are over for me. I find the white linen and cotton too versatile and elegant. Here in DC a pocket square of any kind is a rare sight. A messy white linen makes you quite dandy in comparison to the crowd.
Despite claiming writer's block, you have continued to inspire.
Bravo.
Personally, I find white linen boring and prefer a baby blue or pale pink linen. It adds color without overpowering with design.
Excellent as always, sir!
In his reply The Louche mentioned cotton. I've always wondered why pocket squares are almost always linen or silk. Is cotton too easily used not for show but "for blow" and then beyond redemption? Not generally stiff enough to hold folds or a good puff?
Modern dye and print methods allow for a number of lovely cotton handkerchiefs or squares, so why is it rare to find cotton mentioned as a pocket square?
Cotton is not generally stiff enough to stand up in a pocket.
You suggest almost a week's worth of white linen squares, suggesting that some manner of care should be taken for the square in between wearings. How are you caring for your pocket squares after a day's use? Do you set them aside for pressing, are you washing or cleaning them? You're making me wonder if I am abusing my couple of linen squares by simply unfurling them and laying them in a drawer after wear, but not doing anything further. What else should I be doing? Thanks.
Thanks for this, Will. The practical advice is much appreciated. I feel the urge to start moving beyond the basics where pocket squares are concerned. Just today, though, I received two compliments on my PS (a fairly sober number in burgundy paisley). Still I'd like to be a bit more daring in this department.
Will,
Thank you so much for this posting. I'm so thrilled I influenced you.
I have one specific question on white linen squares - for you or the crowd. I bought several from Drakes of your specified size, and it has surprised me how much of a bulge there is when the square is in pocket. I've tried different folds, but still a bulge. Is there something I'm missing and/or is the bulge nothing to worry about?
M.
Like Eugene, I prefer the pastels, especially in blue and yellow. They can work with a shirt of similar color or play off a contrasting color, such as a pale blue square with a light yellow shirt.
It's good to have two or three squares with varying shades of a color so as not to have the "out of the same box" look of so many prepackaged ensembles.
A pure white square with a dark jacket and shirt can shine like a spotlight, taking attention away from the wearer's face and making photography more difficult.
Michael, if the bulge bothers you just press the square with an iron. But I wouldn't bother.
And Mike, I need more squares than men who press their own because I send mine to the cleaners and so lose them for a week at a time.
With any worsted suit it has to be white linen or cotton. Patterns are strictly for tweeds or linen/cotton coats. Colors of any sort (even edgings) are definitely out unless your in clothing business.
Will: Cotton is not generally stiff enough to stand up in a pocket.
Depends a bit how you fold it. I personally prefer the modesty of a small ski slope (folds visible) peeping out of the left hand side of the pocket so it's not a problem.
MH:and it has surprised me how much of a bulge there is when the square is in pocket.
I don't like bulges in business suit either. Just make sure you don't buy linen squares that are too voluminous. The Drake ones are beautiful but somewhat akin to studding sails.
As I've mentioned before, small men wear jackets with smaller pockets, and smaller pockets are less suited for larger squares. I have some large squares that get almost no pocket time because of the unsightly bulge they make, and even when they do go out for the day, they generally get folded up—not Will's preference, but better than looking like I have a tumor on my chest.
On the other hand, cheaper squares are made of thinner material, and that makes for less of a bulge. So despite the general wisdom of buying the best quality you can afford, sometimes, lesser quality has its benefits.
But only sometimes.
Eugene,
I love the idea of pastel linen. I have one in blue, with navy edges, so it gets quite a bit of use, but I really ought to get more. Thanks for the inspiration! (And thanks to Dan, also, for the great thoughts on contrasting colors.)
I'm going to disagree here. Like Eugene I find white squares boring and unispired. Additionally I see more men here (Europe) wearing coloured squares, like burgundy red or dark green silk) than with white.
White has its place, but I don't believe it should be relied upon due to a fear of appearing like a gallery curator or dandy. I'm not going to the trouble of wearing decent clothing against the general grain just to be felled by the social unacceptability of a pochet!
I'm curious how this post relates to your April 17, 2007, comment that "the majority of men would be better dressed if they had half as many neckties and twice as many squares." It seems today's post is purely about casual wear; does the well-dressed businessman need more squares than just white linen?
CDC in that 2007 posting I wrote that one wears white linen with worsteds and otherwise silks, which is I believe the same advice that I gave in this post.
Post a Comment