The photograph shows the second shirt jacket style that I mentioned in yesterday's post. It is a copy of a design that Joe Hemrajani made for himself, with conventional lapels and upgraded construction. There is no front canvas or shoulder padding.
Past the lapels, the principal differences are inside. Unlike conventional shirt jackets, this one has Bemberg lining in the shoulders and sleeves so it is easier to put on and take off. The reduced friction against the cloth over time means the jacket should last longer as well. A good idea.
It also has self lining inside the lapels to support two pockets on the inside left, and another on the inside right. Though three pockets are probably overkill given the four large pockets on the exterior, one interior pocket is a good idea for securing valuables. Of course, the lack of canvas in the coat front may mean that placing something in the pocket causes bulges in inappropriate places. Experimentation will be required.
Overall, as I wrote yesterday, the interior construction is a step forward but in my opinion a four button front with a short collar works better for unstructured jackets generally. The larger chest opening seems to call for a necktie and I prefer pairing shirt jackets with neckerchiefs, ascots and scarves instead.
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12 comments:
I like the traditional lapels and the lining as well as the pockets inside. I would prefer a traditional breast pocket on the left side only without a button closure but with a flap instead. I also would prefer patch type pockets ala a traditional sport coat. The bulging pockets on the outside are not flattering in my opinion. I like a jacket that I can wear casually during the day but go right into night for dinner at a casual but fine restaurant. I just don't carry much more than a small wallet and maybe a pen and reading glasses. What more can or would I want to stuff in all those pockets?
Seems like it should have another button towards the bottom...it looks like it is gaping open down there.
These shirt jackets strike me as a hybrid that doesn't fulfill either role terribly well. I would prefer a proper jacket (Norfolk or other) to one of these. It seems to me too much of a halfway house garment and not a terribly elegant one at that.
Different strokes for different folks as they say. I wouldn't wear a ten ounce unstructured cashmere jacket for shooting in Scotland, nor would I wear a sixteen ounce Norfolk to a winery in the Napa valley. I do agree that this second model is neither fish no fowl though and I won't be repeating it.
Unlike other posters (and Will), I like the second shirt jacket quite a lot. It seems to me to have a multitude of uses, with or without tie. Travel--by car, as well as by train or plane--would certainly be among them, assuming, of course, that one prefers something other than a jogging outfit. It also strikes me as ideal for weekend cold-weather office or professional conference wear. It is not a blazer, nor is it something that might seem a little foppish (Norfolk jacket) or a little foolish (safari-like jacket) when worn by some of us, or in some places. It strikes me as likely to be precisely as formal or informal as the time and place call for. And, of course, the wearer is in charge of whether his pockets bulge.
Pick of the litter, IMHO. Though I’d like to see what it looks like with a shirt type collar. If it is to have those two flapped upper pockets, I’d make them slightly larger for better balance and proportion. In fact, I’d probably replace them with a single un-flapped, slightly oversize patch breast pocket, and replace the lower flapped bellows pockets with simple, un-flapped patch pockets. (Bellows pockets can make one look a bit hippy, don’t you know.) And perhaps add a half-belt in back. I’d also make it a tad longer and ease the waist suppression slightly for what I believe would make for better balance.
Seems I'm in the minority, but I think it's quite cool. Smart enough to feel dressed, loose enough to be relaxed. I might style one or two things differntly, but all in all I think this is quite a successful experiement. I do like the second jacket more than the first. As for the tie.. either forgo and wear a button-up cardigan or go with a wool knit. Perfect.
I have ambivalent feelings about both the concept and the execution. And bespoke? BUT I have always been an admirer of Filson products. Since I am neither a hunter nor a fisherman, however, they had little I could purchase. However, their whipcord weekend jacket provides a lot of the same attractions as Will's shirt jackets, especially in cooler weather. Very durable and made in USA. http://www.filson.com/products/whipcord-weekender-jacket.10037.html?fromCat=true&fvalsProduct=mens/coats-jackets&fmetaProduct=1011
Merry Christmas to all!
Just saw the UBS 43 page dress code: fyi at: http://www.vancouversun.com/life/dress+code+bankers+Select+translated+text+from+page+tome/3987980/story.html
I am sure your comments would be of interest.
I would tweak some of the details, but I quite like this jacket. The three interior pockets are especially useful. Every time I wear a jacket without the full complement of interior pockets, I regret their absence. The bellows pockets are likely to be useful, too, but I agree that with Tim that they aren't the most flattering.
Will, is the price of this jacket the same as SJ1?
what does the maker charge to for one of these shirt jackets with customer provided fabric?
Those readers "of a certain age" will remember the Pendleton Topster, a jackshirt cut like a three button coat but with barrel cuffs. They were popular for about as long as the Beach Boys topped the charts and then faded away. However, they are an eminently practical and casual/dressy outer garment when the temperature is too cool for linen but not warm enough for tweed. I'm headed down to Hemranjami's tomorrow to see about having him copy mine in another fabric.
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