Thursday, December 23, 2010
The photograph shows the second shirt jacket style that I mentioned in yesterday's post. It is a copy of a design that Joe Hemrajani made for himself, with conventional lapels and upgraded construction. There is no front canvas or shoulder padding.
Past the lapels, the principal differences are inside. Unlike conventional shirt jackets, this one has Bemberg lining in the shoulders and sleeves so it is easier to put on and take off. The reduced friction against the cloth over time means the jacket should last longer as well. A good idea.
It also has self lining inside the lapels to support two pockets on the inside left, and another on the inside right. Though three pockets are probably overkill given the four large pockets on the exterior, one interior pocket is a good idea for securing valuables. Of course, the lack of canvas in the coat front may mean that placing something in the pocket causes bulges in inappropriate places. Experimentation will be required.
Overall, as I wrote yesterday, the interior construction is a step forward but in my opinion a four button front with a short collar works better for unstructured jackets generally. The larger chest opening seems to call for a necktie and I prefer pairing shirt jackets with neckerchiefs, ascots and scarves instead.