Joe Hemrajani's improved shirt jacket specification, that being the moleskin safariana in the photo, and it does represent a definite increase in quality without any increase in price. Most noticeably, the fronts are now turned to provide a bit of self lining sufficient to anchor interior pockets if desired. But no sooner did I get the photo taken than what should arrive but the sample he was making (for what was supposed to be February delivery!) of a version with conventional lapels.
I will have photographs of the second coat taken this week as it represents a further step forward in construction, again without an increase in price so far as I know. There is lining in the sleeves and upper back, as well as three interior pockets (there are also some elbow patches that I wish were not there but that is easy enough to change).
Unstructured jackets work well for travel and in the country generally as they function much like a Norfolk made for moderate weather. Left to my own devices I believe I would settle on a feature set in between the two that I mention here, that being a safariana minus the belt and epaulets but with interior pockets. Not that I need any more of them.
Made to an individual pattern without a fitting at prices beginning around $600 and increasing to twice that for cashmere. Allow 10-12 weeks.