Have a Great Time Tonight

White tie, black tie, dark suit or track suit, have a great time tonight. See you in 2011.



Covering the Chest

When it is cold, the chest is potentially the most exposed part of a man's body after his face and that is the practical side of why we wear scarves. Tossed about decoratively much of the time, when temperatures plunge the scarf has the serious responsibility of covering a chest opening that might otherwise have nothing but undershirt and dress shirt between skin and cold air.

Silk scarves are the more decorative but less warm choice. All-silk scarves act as wind breaks but should probably not be depended on for warmth when the wind chill is below freezing. Silk is tightly woven and does not trap warm air in the weave, so it does not warm the skin. Cashmere or merino on the other hand does trap air and once that air heats up to body temperature can actually wear too warm when the sun shines and winds stop blowing. They and, better still, their silk backed cashmere relations come into their own below zero (-20 C).

Place the cashmere side against your neck and show the silk to the world, keeping your chest covered.

Gray and Black with Bordeaux in the Middle

This blog writing stuff is not always easy. Though the modest successes are visible, the failures usually remain out of sight behind the scenes. And what can the sight of bordeaux hose clad calves be construed as but failure?

Indeed, those calves were intended to play a part in the re-enactment, if such it could be called, of a simple shoes and socks installment illustrating how gray trousers and black shoes are complemented by hose which do not attempt to match the trousers in question. But the requisite photography did not work out, leaving little to choose from in the way of illustration.

Now, if we can turn our thoughts from those disturbing calves for a moment, bordeaux or maroon are in my opinion perhaps the best mis-matched hose to wear with gray trousers, followed closely by bottle green (forget the darker shades of blue, which are not terribly compatible with black in the first place). And if one is to break the recommendation of clothing writers everywhere that one's socks should match one's trousers, said mis-matched color should be just that. Keep it complementary to but different from everything above the waist lest the whole look appear too contrived.

How can that be, you might ask? Well, that gray suit could be worn with a pink shirt and a charcoal necktie in which case bordeaux hose might be just the ticket. Or replace the pink shirt with tan and choose bottle green socks instead.

Only be sure to get fully dressed before someone starts snapping photos of your calves.

The Transition from Belts

I do not know how Larry King, the American television host, began wearing his signature braces, but I do know that converting from belted trousers is not easy. It took more than a decade before my wardrobe was consistent, meaning I had braced trousers and trousers with side adjusters but none that required belts.

Now I am certain that the majority of men, belt wearers all, will wonder what the issue is and that is a fair question that has to do with the rise of the trousers in the first place. For trousers should be worn at the natural waist, several inches above the hips, which requires that they are made with a high rise. That high rise means the waist is covered under a buttoned jacket, which is a cleaner look than the clutter of an exposed belt or waistband, and the trousers hang in a straight line over the belly that sedentary men pick up over the years. It, meaning that same high rise, also precludes belt-wearing.

Recognizing that the overwhelming majority of western men have supported their trousers with belts since the rise of ready to wear clothing sometime after the Second World War, any move away from belts is likely to occur in stages. It usually begins with evening clothes or a vested suit, where dissatisfaction with protruding belt buckles leads to a change in trouser suspension for one or two garments. And then over time a man notices that he is no longer required to pull his trousers up several times during the course of the day as braced trousers do not require periodic adjustment.  After that, new suits begin arriving with buttons already on the waistband.

Once a wardrobe enters the mixed phase, with some belted trousers and some suspended, change tends to accelerate. Unused belt loops make the waistband look cluttered, and are removed. Next, low rise trousers are replaced with high to achieve the clean waisted look. Some of the new models may be worn suspended and others cut to remain in place without aid but it is only a matter of how many years go by before the belt wardrobe is donated to a worthy cause.

Now I am willing to wager that flat bellied younger men reading this are thinking that they will always have their belts, and some of them are correct. Unless one wears tailored clothing regularly, the issues are unlikely to arise. But, for those for whom the suit is daily garb, the transition to unbelted waistbands is, in my opinion, an inevitable part of becoming well dressed.

Photo: MM Tussard

Black and Tan

It may be my favorite pairing, that being the combination of black and tan (here we are speaking of course about the colors rather than the alcoholic beverage though I suppose that has many admirers of its own). Costume designer Jenny Beavan uses it to good effect (the colors, not the drink) in the scene from the film The King's Speech, where Colin Firth is rather cruelly sent out into the cold in what appears to be a coat made from cloth too lightweight to keep him from freezing. He may not have even known that he was at risk from an anachronism, but I digress.

Now when it comes to wearing it with black hat, scarf and gloves, this particular lightweight coat has an advantage over its camel colored relations, and that is the hint of taupe that reduces the otherwise stark contrast. A similar effect is achieved when the black in a necktie, for example, has a little white or cream in it, as in microdots, to help soften its impact. But with or without that help a tan suit, white shirt and a black necktie are in summer an equally handsome way to present oneself to the world.

Tan or camel coats are to me best worn over gray suits for similar reasons. Gray is the other good background for black accessories, and an equally fine complement to tan (it has always been a puzzle to me that ecru shirtings are not worn more often). 

Black and tan. It is not just a beverage.

Photo: The King's Speech

Dress It Up for New Year's Eve

I have to admit that though I do not have my photo archive with me today I did spend a not inconsiderable amount of time looking for a contemporary photograph of a celebrity wearing well-fitted black tie for this post, and failed. But Astaire came through as he generally does, though he is hardly contemporary. And I guess that leads into my point, which is to urge men with aspirations towards dressing well to take their partners to a place where both of you can dress up a bit for New Year's Eve and improve the quality of life for those around you.

Dressing up in this context means something more than that tee shirt and denim jacket you wore to the Train concert last year. The most common excuse I hear from men who do not wear their evening clothes often is that they rarely go places where they can wear them. Well, unless you live far from civilization New Year's Eve is one night when you can be confident that others will be dressed to the proverbial nines in a variety of venues. Stay home and you have no-one to blame but yourself. And do not simply settle for what is already in your closet. Spice things up with a new pair of patent leather evening shoes or a white silk scarf.

Going out on New Year's Eve does not absolutely require black tie, though it may be the best thing to wear to the symphony. The first fallback for men who are headed for a venue like a restaurant where black tie might be overkill should be the combination of dark blue suit, black shoes, white shirt and pocket square and either a blue satin four in hand necktie or a perhaps a new evening bow tie. And if that also seems a little too formal, as it might when you have tickets to see Margaret Cho or Sarah Silverman, substitute a navy blazer and mid-gray trousers for the suit (stick with the bow tie).

But do go somewhere that gives you permission to dress it up for New Year's Eve.

Photo:  LIFE

Merry Christmas

A very merry Christmas to you and yours from A Suitable Wardrobe.

Photo: White Christmas (Paramount Pictures)

T'was the Day Before Christmas

T'was the day before Christmas and all through the house,
when creatures were stirring they walked like a mouse.
For the stockings were hung by the chimney with care,
but the slippers for father hadn't got there.

-With apologies to Clement Clark Moore

Regular readers may recall that I was toying with leopard slippers earlier this year. Unfortunately, the sample I had made simply did not fit as well as the canvas versions I had been wearing at home.

Well, some months later I stumbled upon a maker of a design that looks as though it may be easier on the feet and immediately ordered a pair thinking I would have them for the holiday to replace an ageing pair of Belgians. They are apparently in transit (the photo was taken before they were soled), however they will unfortunately not arrive in time to make it into a stocking.

The delay of course will soon be forgotten if they are as comfortable as I hope they will be.


A Surfeit of Shirt Jackets, Part II

The photograph shows the second shirt jacket style that I mentioned in yesterday's post. It is a copy of a design that Joe Hemrajani made for himself, with conventional lapels and upgraded construction. There is no front canvas or shoulder padding.

Past the lapels, the principal differences are inside. Unlike conventional shirt jackets, this one has Bemberg lining in the shoulders and sleeves so it is easier to put on and take off. The reduced friction against the cloth over time means the jacket should last longer as well. A good idea.

It also has self lining inside the lapels to support two pockets on the inside left, and another on the inside right. Though three pockets are probably overkill given the four large pockets on the exterior, one interior pocket is a good idea for securing valuables. Of course, the lack of canvas in the coat front may mean that placing something in the pocket causes bulges in inappropriate places. Experimentation will be required.

Overall, as I wrote yesterday, the interior construction is a step forward but in my opinion a four button front with a short collar works better for unstructured jackets generally. The larger chest opening seems to call for a necktie and I prefer pairing shirt jackets with neckerchiefs, ascots and scarves instead.

A Surfeit of Shirt Jackets

I recently received the first example I have seen of Joe Hemrajani's improved shirt jacket specification, that being the moleskin safariana in the photo, and it does represent a definite increase in quality without any increase in price. Most noticeably, the fronts are now turned to provide a bit of self lining sufficient to anchor interior pockets if desired. But no sooner did I get the photo taken than what should arrive but the sample he was making (for what was supposed to be February delivery!) of a version with conventional lapels.

I will have photographs of the second coat taken this week as it represents a further step forward in construction, again without an increase in price so far as I know. There is lining in the sleeves and upper back, as well as three interior pockets (there are also some elbow patches that I wish were not there but that is easy enough to change).

Unstructured jackets work well for travel and in the country generally as they function much like a Norfolk made for moderate weather. Left to my own devices I believe I would settle on a feature set in between the two that I mention here, that being a safariana minus the belt and epaulets but with interior pockets. Not that I need any more of them.

Made to an individual pattern without a fitting at prices beginning around $600 and increasing to twice that for cashmere. Allow 10-12 weeks.

Repeat Three Colors

In the photograph, Fred Astaire demonstrates that repeating three colors in the day's clothing can add interest without appearing overly coordinated. Combinations of two colors are tried and true, but the simplicity of blue and white or gray and blue grows old too quickly for every day use (completely monochromatic looks of course are generally beyond the pale). More, in this case, is better.

Repeating three colors is easiest when the day's jacket has some pattern. Ivory pin stripes, for example, can be repeated in the dress shirt while a jacket's navy ground may also be the secondary color in the necktie. And that same tie may have a primary color, for example, that is the same as the stripe of the shirt.

Astaire is wearing an odd jacket, and so has considerably more latitude to include color in his ensemble. The ground of the tie is repeated in his square, the dots pick up the jacket and his shirt is the color of his buttonhole. With so much going, on the fact that it all works together is evident only in a general sort of way. He looks good, and that is the objective.

Repeat three colors.

Maintaining Standards

The holidays are the start of the winter vacation season and in this man's opinion the best way to deal with the cold is to go somewhere warm. The illustration, which was originally posted at Gentleman's Gazette, reminds us to pack lighter colors for cruising, for though one may not need much for days on the beach, clothes do make the man on deck. The colors of summer - light blues, tan, white and light gray  - are also good shipboard colors.

Now depending on the cruise line, one may be more likely to be wearing light sweaters than jackets these days, particularly under way as there is little need to carry anything other than the plastic card that opens the door to the cabin and is accepted as identification at the bar as well. But daily trips ashore warrant a linen safariana or a patch pocketed odd jacket if not a cotton suit in something like that very nice rusty brown on the man in the left background. Add a light blue coat and white trousers for informal nights in the dining room.

And remember your dinner jacket. After all, if you do not maintain standards, who will?

Wear a Suit

When a younger professional is building out his tailored clothing wardrobe, he often finds the transition from shirt and trouser dressing to be somewhat awkward. Simply wearing an odd jacket on more formal occasions is often the easiest step up the wardrobe ladder, but a trap may lie there for the unwary. For budgets are usually limited in those same years, and the purchase of enough odd jackets so that a different one can be worn every day of the week is likely to preclude purchases of suits that will be a considerably better choice after a few years of further career progression.

Now all but the most self confident of men are hesitant to dress more formally than their peers and this is usually an error. For so long as one does not cross the line into costume, no-one pays attention after a few days, and what attention may be paid is likely to be the thought that the suit-wearer is perhaps to be emulated.

The way to introduce suits into the workplace is to begin with less formal designs and work them in a day or two a week. Glen checks are probably the best pattern, mid-gray flannel the best solid for cool weather and tan its peer for warm. Pin stripes should be reserved for board meetings.

Further, suits worn in odd jacket milieus should also be accessorized so that they are approximately as formal as an odd jacket. Slip-on shoes, especially monk straps, work well to reduce the formality of a suit in warmer weather, for example, as do shirts with button down collars and buttoning cuffs. Knit ties are effective year-round. One might even, and I write this with great reluctance, emulate Clooney from time to time and go tieless.

But wear a suit.

Google, whose software underlies this weblog, appears to be having difficulties with its code for uploading photography lately. Today's photo was not originally intended to illustrate this post, but it was the best that could be done under the circumstances. I do not, however, recommend wearing silk pocket squares to most offices.

Introducing the Pub Jacket

Unlike tailored clothing, which must have sleeves and shoulders that fit each man individually, knitwear is relatively forgiving. Sleeves, for example, are simply rolled up an extra inch if necessary to show a little shirt cuff. With that in mind, I am happy to introduce the pub jacket to the ASW store.

A navy blue blend of soft merino wool and 10% cashmere that is knitted in the Aran Islands, the pub jacket has a ribbed collar and sleeves, a seven button front and ribbed patch pockets. It wears like a less formal version of a blazer, which makes it ideal for days at home as well as afternoons at the local watering hole. Pair it with corduroy, flannel or moleskin trousers, my easy fitting chukka boot and either a dress shirt and a neckerchief or a lightweight cashmere top and a scarf.

Switching gears, the observant may notice a new "chat" button at the upper left of each page of the store. There are still a few issues to be resolved but chat will be live part of each day going forward. I hope you will find it a convenient way to have your questions answered as they arise.

Finally, remember that I am shipping all continental United States orders with a cost of more than $100 to arrive by December 24 without an extra shipping charge. That means you can shop as late as December 22 and still have your ASW purchases in time to get them wrapped.

Happy Holidays!

Choosing the Day's Socks

The folks who developed the UBS dress code may not like the thought but socks should rarely be black. When a man needs to be discreet they should match his trousers, with just a bit of pattern to give them some interest.

When discretion is not called for, choose socks that pick up the color of some article of clothing worn above the waist, or that relate to nothing at all. Dark red, like the alternate socks shown in the illustrations, is always a reassonable choice to fall back on.

It All Begins Here

It may have been sewn in England, Italy or Hong Kong but much of the world's best tailored clothing starts in New Zealand's high country. The South Island is a leading source of Merino wool, generally considered unique for its combination of bright white fibre; high crimp, which makes it long, strong and elastic; consistent in diameter and with very low levels of contamination that make it easier to clean.

Brought to New Zealand in the 18th century, the Merino sheep has flourished amid that country's mountains and glacier fed lakes. Once sheared, the fleece is flown to England, Scotland and Italy where it is woven. Its journey continues through the hands of tailors around the world, and finally, after travelling much of the way around the planet, into the wardrobes of the customers of those tailors.

But it all begins in one of the most pristine places on earth.

Dressing for an Interview at UBS

Anyone who might be wondering how to dress for an interview with UBS, the Swiss financial services firm where entry-level salaries averaged nearly $60,000 last year, might wish to review a copy of that organization's newly published 44 page dress and grooming code. The code, which in fairness was written for temporary hires that interact with the public and may never be rolled out to the rest of the staff, is pretty dull stuff consisting as it does of such basic advice as "wear clean underwear" and "don't eat too much garlic" that could leave one wondering where UBS is finding its candidates.

The basics of dressing for success at UBS are, well, basic. They can be summed up by looking at the two men in the illustration and realizing that the guy in back is a banker and the man in front is a client. For the banker:

• black shoes with laces and a semblance of a shine;
• pattern-free black over the calf hose except that socks with ribs are OK;
• black belts (and no extra credit for trousers with side adjustors or worn with braces).
• suits in dark grey, black or navy blue, because these colors "symbolize competence, formalism and sobriety;"
• long sleeved dress shirts that show a bit of cuff;
• and a four-in hand necktie that may be tied in any of the three generally accepted knots using the instructions provided in case someone does not already know how.

 All OK, I suppose but for their acceptance of the Windsor knot. Or perhaps that is just there as a sort of second level screen and the hiring handbook has an admonition to politely lose interest in those candidates who apparently do not know better.

Still, it is comforting to know that in these anything goes days a few are still trying to maintain standards.

Paisley in Context

Yes, I did run a photo of the same tie yesterday but it is here presented in context, that being clothing worn for travel from country to city. 

The jacket is one that I keep telling myself should be retired but I like the cloth, an old suiting tweed from the long defunct Hunters of Brora,  too much. The charcoal in the twill coordinates with the black border of the paisleys printed on the necktie and the burgundy on said tie somehow manages to avoid overtly clashing with the orange of the wool square. Finally, the shirt collar is pinned, an embellishment that I think elegant so long as it is kept away from most offices.

Necktie Wardrobe Expansion

Once a man has a few solid blue neckties (for a navy oxford weave, knit, pindot and perhaps a midnight blue satin are the place to begin) forming a minimalist necktie wardrobe, he is ready to branch out a little and increase his inventory to about a dozen. I would choose two grenadines next, in silver and in black, and only after I had those would I consider anything patterned, like the buff madder with black and red paisley in the photo that can flex between almost formal and fairly casual, complementing tweeds as well as pin stripes.

Paisleys are more memorable than solids of course, and more of a special occasion tie than something for weekly wear. A less memorable though still unique tie to consider sooner rather than later is a cashmere like the navy with natural overcheck in the second photo. Meant to complement flannel most of the time, it is also plain enough to pair with a worsted suit when the occasion calls for a touch of the dandy.

Add a seasonal summer tie like the shantung silk in the third photo as the warm weather version of the paisley. Pick up three conservative foulards (something in gray, and two more discreeet patterns in navy) to fill out the dozen and that is a solid beginning to a necktie wardrobe. The satin tie is for evening but can be worn with flannel; the shantung, paisley, cashmere, oxford weave and knit will serve for casual occasions as well as the work week; and there are half a dozen choices for office variety.

Photos: Drakes London

When the Castle is Chilly

One sometimes overlooked use for a scarf in cool weather is to wear it like an ascot with a piece of heavier knitwear like an Aran sweater. Edward Fox did it to keep his neck warm in a chilly castle in the 1978 television series "Edward and Mrs. Simpson." A silk scarf is best, particularly if the combination will spend any time heated spaces.

Fold the scarf in half lengthwise and place around the neck, leaving the left side about a foot longer than the right. Wrap the left around the right one and a half times and then bring the end up and over the knot from behind. Tuck into the sweater and spread the scarf to fill the neckline.

In Time for the Holiday

New at the ASW store this week are our easy fitting chukka boots, footwear perfection for weekends and, well, holidays. The gentleman's casual shoe with athletic shoe comfort, they combine snuff-colored water-resistant suede uppers with cushiony natural crepe soles that have good traction on slippery surfaces.

And with the weather in Europe delaying some shipments, in transit for arrival any day now are a plethora of Albert Thurston braces in large as well as medium sizes plus a new supply of deer bones for cordovan shoe polishing, various hair and clothing brushes, a re-supply of Simonnot-Godard voile shirting in several colors and several new neckties.

Interested parties might also take note of our holiday shipping policy. Beginning December 16, we will be dispatching all continental United States orders with a cost of more than $100 for two day delivery without an additional charge through December 22. That means that last-minute domestic orders will still arrive in time for gift-wrapping.

I hope to see you at the store.

A Drawer Full of Pocket Squares

After the writers blocked day I had recently a reader wrote asking for some thoughts on how to build a collection of pocket squares once the basic white linen is on hand. That was one of those things that sounded like a good idea until I sat down to write for it is hard to do in practice. Unlike the typical wardrobe building exercise a pocket square collection has less of a regular progression than do shirts, for example, or suits. Indeed, once one gets beyond the navy blue silk with white or cream dots, which should probably be any man's first venture down the road to dandyism, I can speak only in generalities.

Only generalities apply because the market for squares is relatively small and the number of staple patterns limited. For few men other than those in the clothing business or owning art galleries can wear patterned silks in their worsted suit jackets without attracting the suspicion of other men that perhaps they should be selling antiques or something. And that is a dangerous road to go down.

No, white linen is the staple of worsted suit wearers everywhere. Only the French, the Italians and a few Americans will so much as wear linen with colored borders and I doubt that any true Englishman would be caught with one in public.

Really, the opportunity for other types of squares lies principally with flannel and with tweed jackets, where the gleam of silk complements the matte finish of the woolen cloth and the wool or cashmere necktie that often accompanies it. Here a man can wear that navy dotted square, the full palette of paisleys, and other patterns as well from makers such as Hermes, Drakes or Rubinacci. Hermes aside, there are not many of those to choose from, for, as Michael Drake once told me, a maker has a fairly substantial price to pay to the designer to make the first square and then sells only a few relatively inexpensive pieces each year to slowly get his money back. And thus, instead of new designs on a regular basis, the best of the old, like Drake's Moghul prints, are re-issued periodically to a new crowd of purchasers.

Returning to the practicalities of filling a drawer with pocket squares for a moment, it probably takes at least six white linen handkerchiefs to start a collection. Look for the ones that are 48 cm (16 1/2 inches) on a side so they stand up in a pocket, and have enough so that there is always a fresh one waiting for its call. Then consider silks of the same size, starting with that dotted navy, continuing through at least two paisleys in colors that match nothing in one's necktie wardrobe and finishing with one or two of the Hermes/Rubinacci/Drake prints. Advanced dressers may look for another one or two patterns in wool or cashmere though they should be forewarned that those may get the least wear as they should only be paired with silk neckties and odd jackets.

After that, fill the drawer as you please.

Of Butterflys and Batwings, Some With Diamonds

Though there are several ways to knot a four in hand necktie it has but one shape. Oddly, the reverse is true for the bow tie, which has several shapes but only one knot, and those shapes have a variety of overlapping and somewhat confusing names. Today's post is an attempt to set the record straight while the holiday season with its bow tie occasions is still upon us and I know that you, dear reader, care deeply about this because you are not numbered among those who take refuge in long ties on formal occasions because they are not quite certain how to tie a bow and neither is their stylist.

Though they come in different widths, there are two basic bow tie shapes, the batwing, usually the same as the straight tie, and the butterfly (also called the thistle). And there are two different ends, the straight end and the diamond point. Either shape can carry either end, like the straight-ended butterfly in the first photo.

That butterfly with straight ends is perhaps the most common bow. The tie flares outward, and the relatively narrow center is easier to manipulate than its wider relations and ties a smaller knot. The butterfly in my opinion has a place in every bow tie wardrobe but its very ubiquity sends me looking for something less common, like the diamond pointed butterfly in the second photo.

Still less common is my personal favorite, the bat wing bow. I like it because it ties a wider knot (see the photo here) and I like that look. It is usually cut straight, but not always. Note the gentle curve to the underside of the diamond pointed bat wing in the photograph.

And then there is the conventional bat wing which when it is executed to perfection forms a straight horizontal line across the entire tie on top and bottom.

I should mention that occasionally one also sees single ended bow ties, in which one end is straight and one butterflied. I am not aware of a single reason these should exist, save to save the maker a few pennies worth of silk, as they are a royal pain to tie, requiring as they do that the butterflied end be in front of the knotted tie when all is done. Statistically that outcome would seem to have a 50-50 chance but the reality is that when one is running late for a curtain the likelihood approaches certainty that it will be tied backwards.

And those are, I believe, the shapes of the bow tie.

"You Are Not Going to Believe This Stuff"

Despite persistent rumors that bloggers get everything for free, I buy my underwear just like everyone else (and put it on one leg at a time too). Mine is Zimmerli, which advertises itself as the world's finest and is certainly in that discussion when it comes to the knitted kind. I get it from New York's Kabbaz Kelly.

Well, Kabbaz sent me an order the other day with an extra box in the box (OK, bloggers do get some things for free) accompanied by a note that said simply, "You are not going to believe this stuff" (he used an earthier word than stuff but, as the saying goes, you get the picture).

Inside that box was something I had never seen before, that being an undershirt knitted from Sea Island cotton which, as you know, is extra long yarn grown in the Caribbean that is generally considered the best that cotton gets. The length of the fibers gives the Sea Island product a smoother feel that some say is comparable to silk.

Now I have no desire to get into advertising copywriter rhapsodies about it but the hand of that Zimmerli undershirt is comparable to my David and John Anderson Super 240s dress shirts and those are as nice as anything cotton on the planet. My next thought of course was for my wallet. That DJA shirting is also about as expensive as shirting can get and there was no reason to expect that Sea Island cotton underwear was going to be an affordable luxury by my standards.

Sure enough, at $165 for a tee shirt, the Sea Island Zimmerlis are too rich for my blood. They make the $87 Royal Classic Cotton Lisle shirts seem reasonable and I guess that is good. Even better, the briefs are not available in the model that I wear, which gives me another reason to classify Sea Island underwear as I do cashmere and silk socks. In other words, forget it exists Will.

Still, if you should have the opportunity to feel it, you are not going to believe this stuff.

Photo: Zimmerli

How Long Can This Keep Going On?

I am a little tardy in recognizing it but a few days ago was the fourth anniversary of the first A Suitable Wardrobe post. The first readers were a few men who knew me from the Ask Andy About Clothes forum, in those days the heart of the sartorial internet. Today, about 50,000 people from every part of the world visit about 300,000 times a month, which I find rather unbelievable.

We have all come a long way in four years. I don't know how much longer I will be able to keep coming up with topics of interest every day but I hope the journey has been as rewarding for you as it has for me.

No Wonder He is Smiling

I am hardly a cold weather sportsman but there are nonetheless a few things to like about winter, some of them even related to clothing. Honest flannel suits are one, the 15 ounce/450 gram versions that keep a man comfortable when temperatures are close to freezing, and I have written about them recently.

I prefer my flannel with accessories that have a little character, like the yellow suede gloves and black homburg hat on the man on the left in the illustration for example, and cool weather is the enabler for these. When temperatures fall a man gets value beyond mere adornment from his scarves as well. There is probably a large scarf pocket inside those overcoats and I would not be surprised to see our fellow on the left wrapping a burgundy paisley madder silk around his neck.

No wonder he is smiling.

Cold Weather Cottons

Winter is corduroy and moleskin trouser time, trousers being the principal application for cotton in a man's tailored clothing for cool weather (there are both corduroy and moleskin jackets but I am not fond of the former as the wales prevent a coat from hanging as well as it ought and there are plenty of good alternatives without that problem; the latter is rare though it makes up as a nice cold weather shirt jacket).

Useful and economical as it is generally, cotton is less practical in the cold because the smooth surface of the typical weave means it does not trap air next to the skin where it can warm up and help keep the wearer warm. That characteristic accounts for the popularity of woolen flannel, for example, as well as moleskin (everywhere but the United States where it is relatively hard to find) which is cotton that has been brushed during the milling process to give it a nap.

Moleskin comes in a variety of weights to accommodate a range of temperature, with 15 to 20 ounces (450 to 600 grams) appropriate for moderate to sub-zero weather. Corduroy comes in a similar range of weights and also a variety of wales per inch, wales being the series of ridges that give it its distinctive texture, that can range from about two to as many as twenty. And though no corduroy is ever formal enough for business, as the number of wales increase so does the formality of the cloth.

The popularity of both corduroy and moleskin is principally due to its relatively low cost, as the best of it is roughly half the cost of suiting quality wool from one of the better English mills. But both materials excel below tweed jackets where their surface interest adds character to an ensemble.

Cold weather cottons are best in Autumnal colors in my opinion. Besides the usual greens, tans and browns try rust and corn yellow. There are reds and blues too, though those are probably better for the pub than the field.

Corduroys and moleskins. At least one pair of each should be in every man's cold weather wardrobe.

Photo: Gurteen

Challis Time

Wool challis is a very lightweight material that makes what authorities such as author G. Bruce Boyer consider the perfect tie to pair with tweed jackets. It is block printed by hand with geometric, paisley or sporting patterns and has a unique palette of muted blue, bottle green, burnt orange, red-brown and tawny yellow.

I asked Patrizio Cappelli, who most readers will know as one of the world's best tiemakers, to offer wool challis neckties this season and he was kind enough to provide 18 swatches (the ties were offered first to subscribers to the ASW mailing list and a couple patterns are now sold out).

There is only enough material remaining for one to three neckties from each pattern, so rather than stock them for the ASW store I thought to let people order what they like, in exactly the length and width that suits them (Patrizio recommends a standard lined three-fold construction). They are $165 per necktie, including shipping in the United States. A 50% deposit is taken with each order and the balance is due when the ties are ready to ship in about six weeks. This opportunity must close Wednesday, without exception.

New and actually on the store this week are a selection of pencil striped cashmere ties and an outstanding muted madder silk scarf with hand knotted fringe. I hope to see you there.

The Wonderful Thing About Italy

The wonderful thing about Italy from the standpoint of the clothing obsessed is that it seems as though every small town has at least one artisanal endeavor making something beautiful and unique to wear. Yesterday a reader was kind enough to point out Calzaturificio Miserocchi, a small firm North of Milan that makes moccasins/car shoes for private clubs and small retailers. The pair in the photo were made for the late Gianni Agnelli.

Of course, only Agnelli might have thought to combine them with gray flannel. But that is part it as well.

Stuff a Hank In It

There is controversy aplenty over whether a gentleman should always wear a handkerchief in the breast pocket of his overcoat (as if there was any other purpose to the pocket),  but one never hears the practice discussed when applied to pajamas, where it really comes in handy. For unless a man has mastered the arcane art of tucking his hank into his pajama sleeve, there is usually no other place to stash it.

That said, Michael Drake poured fuel on my fire by pointing out that his pajamas, or pyjamas as he calls them, actually have a pair of patch pockets on the coat in addition to the breast, a handy innovation that had somehow escaped my notice all these years (is there such a thing as pocket envy?). But there is still only one purpose for that storage compartment on the chest.

Stuff a hank in it.

Photo: Drake's London



As Simple As Can Be

The combination of gray and white is about as simple as dress can be, and, though it is likely that the plainness of the combination infringes upon at least one rule of dress promulgated by those same sartorial predecessors that I am quick to quote when it suits me, it seemed a reasonable thing to wear the other day to try on shoes (the thoughtful look on the wearer's face is inevitable when confronted with so many desirable possibilities). The gray flannel necktie contrasts a bit with the plain weave of the suit.

The shoe trying process seemed to be equally simple. Though sole-less for the time being, the replacement pair of slip-ons fit perfectly (the otherwise invisible change that accomplished this result is an increase in the height of the apron, to hold the shoes more firmly on the foot). The completed version may even arrive in time for the warmer weather for which they are intended.

Simple.