The Neapolitan trousermaking father and son, Antonio and Savatore Ambrosi announced a prêt-à-porter line yesterday in Florence. Or, I should say they were scheduled to do so for I met with them in the morning before the evening's announcement as that was when I had been told the event was to be. Alas, the occasion had been moved to the evening, but the postponement did leave time for coffee.
Ambrosi's ready to wear line will initially be in stores in Asia in 2012. It promises the Ambrosi styling, including button flies and contrast colored waistbands, at a considerable savings from bespoke, though no prices have been set as of this time.
Speaking of bespoke, father and son now also produce an entirely hand-made trouser called the Antonio, using vintage cloth from the family's stocks, for $1,500 a pair. That is about double the current price for a bespoke trouser with the usual 70% hand-work.
Bespoke Ambrosi trousers are currently available from the atelier in Naples as well as by appointment during Salvatore's visits to the major cities of the world.
The original version of this post stated that Ambrosi's standard handwork was 17% of the total. This was an error. The correct number is 70% of the stitches in a pair of trousers.
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6 comments:
Oh, well... Another one (or another ones).
Super-expensive bespoke + RTW offerings.
Sorry, but in the past this only led to disasters in what is core (or used to be core) offering -- that is, pure and simple bespoke work, without any fancies.
"17%" handwork on the normal bespoke? How on Earth does one make that calculation?
It sounds as if Ambrosi will simply be putting its name on factory-made ready-to-wear trousers made by someone else. It doesn't seem like the Ambrosis will be making the RTW line themselves, unless you can correct me.
It usually does no good when I correct you RJ but in this case you are correct. As I understand it they will do the design and the trousers will be made elsewhere.
WILL I was considering having the trouser of a suit made by ambrosi and the jacket and waistcoat by another maker.. More of a British cut I did however question if altogether it would be noticeable that I used separate makers. I know the Late duke of windsor as many other great dressers had different makers for garments that made up 1 suit but I was a bit conscerned
There is a lot more complexity involved in using two different makers. For one thing, you must provide the cloth as it can vary if the tailors each purchase their own. For another, the items are unlikely to be finished in the same timeframe, which may be an inconveience.
In this case, Ambrosi makes a Neapolitan belted trouser. You state that the jacket will be English. You should be certain that the two styles will be compatible to your eye before proceeding.
Thanks for the info will. I only wear braces in suit trousers so I'll check with him about a higher waisted fishtail back pleated model. I'm slim so I shouldn't require an extreme amount of fullness in the trouser or jacket.
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