Friday, January 14, 2011
You can tell quite a bit from a walk through the workshop of a tailoring firm. The best firms have well lit spaces, a good proportion of younger staff in training so that there is the possibility that they will be able to maintain standards when the last of the post-war generation of tailors retires, and interesting work in progress. The Neapolitan version of Rubinacci qualifies on all three counts. The rooms are bright, the staff is a mixture of young and old, and, most interesting of all, there is a wide variety of clothing underway.
On the rack next to Mariano Rubinacci in the photograph is a camel hair polo coat made properly, with mailbox patch pockets. There is a blazer with solid - not plated - gold buttons in progress in the next room, and and a navy jacket being lined with silk scarves in a third. Perhaps most impressively, the room full of trousermakers has no sewing machines, something that I have seen only once before.
The quality is obvious.