Among the most most elegant articles of clothing for men is a well executed smoking jacket, which is why I am unable to resist re-posting the photo of Girolamo Stabile from Rubinacci Club's photos taken at a party they threw for the London launch of the self-published book about themselves (and if that is not self-referential what is?). Like most elegant things, the challenge with the smoking is finding an appropriate place to wear it, which is probably why Mr. Stabile wore his in what is usually considered an inappropriate venue (English custom reserves smoking jackets for wear at home or at one's club).
The two principal components of the best smoking jackets are silk velvet rather than the cotton stuff that is usually substituted, and the jacket frogs, so named because those things that replace the button on the front of his jacket look vaguely like the amphibians. London's Henry Poole had been the only firm I knew with a supply of silk velvet, which they stock principally for making ceremonial court dress, but apparently Rubinacci also has some since the photo caption, which admittedly I might have misinterpreted, appears to state that they made all the black tie garments pictured.
There were a number of years when I attended a rather dull New Year's celebration at my club simply for an excuse to wear the green velvet smoking jacket that may be the greatest extravagance in my closet in terms of cost per wearing. I would not wear mine at a book launch party, black tie or not, but I will admit that the thought is tempting. For, like Mr. Stabile's, it is an elegant thing.
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9 comments:
I always thought smoking jackets covered one's clothes (shirt and waistcoat) with a more double breasted cut and wide shawl collar, so one can smoke and then remove it and put your jacket back on and return to daily life not reeking of smoke?
I've never had one, probably never seen one, and I don't smoke, so I'm a novice in this respect.
In Dutch and German (and probably a few other languages) a 'Smoking' refers to a tuxedo or dinner suit, which makes me think wires have gotten crossed somewhere.
Yes, I can't really understand this one either. The jacket seems to be teamed up with dark-gray dress trousers, a white dress shirt with buttons not studs, a black bow tie and, of all things, a cummerbund. It isn't black tie, it isn't a smoking outfit for the club, and it isn't understated and well-cut suited elegance for a formal day-time business occasion. However, it does say 'dressed up for a special occasion', it shows that the wearer is prepared to experiment, it certainly suits the wearer and I bet that he stood out from the crowd at the time. Surely progress is often made by those brave enough and knowledgeable enough to be able to defy convention and carry it off.
The usual smoking is single breasted and was originally worn as a short jacket to replace the tailcoat for after dinner cigars. The dinner jacket also being short, the term was adopted in Germany for the dinner jacket.
The smoking is not worn during the day. It is evening wear, the one in the photo would be fine for wear at a formal evening at a club, smoking or not.
May I assume from the gentleman's stance that he hails from the city of Pisa?
It's a shame Mr. Stabile couldn't have an equally elegant bow tie made up. The one he is wearing is cartoonishly large for his head and frame.
I love the idea, but am not so certain on the execution.
To me, perhaps the greatest appeal of a smoking jacket is that it is not black. Having said that, a black velvet jacket (with peak lapels, no less!) may be, in some sense, more versatile than a traditional one in bottle green, plum, or maroon. Given the laxity with which most people approach black tie, a jacket like this, combined with otherwise standard black tie elements, could "pass" where a colored one could not.
Though I do wish that Mr. Stabile had worn a proper shirt, and a smaller tie. Sprezzatura, perhaps?
Henry Poole isn't the only London tailor working with silk velvet. I have a doublet for wear with my kilt made of a very rich blue silk velvet by Meyer and Mortimer. Exquisite fabric!
This appears to be the work of Mr. Tom Ford. I love the combo! Pulling off Velvet jackets or Smoking jackets is usually quite difficult. Well done :)
Question: Am considering wearing a one-button, peak lapel, black velvet dinner jacket for my wedding which is black tie and in January in New York City. Would this be appropriate to wear this at either the reception, ceremony, or both? Many thanks.
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