Nicholas Storey's second book, titled A History of Men's Accessories (Pen and Sword March 2011) but only somewhat about accessories and their history, continues the unusual relationship between title and contents that began with his History of Men's Fashion. That book of course was on men's dress as seen through the glass of the City of London but neither a history nor about fashion. I speculate (I suppose I could ask but guessing is more fun) that someone at his publisher assigns the title before the book is written and then the submitted manuscript is allowed to wander away from the title a bit. Again, as with Mr. Storey's first book, the subtitle, A Short Guide for Men About Town, is a better description of the contents.
All that aside, in the guise of a History Mr. Storey's guide is a worth while smörgåsbord of unique content for men. A third of it is actually about accessories for grooming, scents and dressing generally. Most of that part is quintessentially English and grounded in the 19th century if not earlier, with the periodic exception of a few modern products such as the scent Ormonde Jane. And the third chapter actually does cover slippers, dressing gowns, collars, braces, watches, pens, pins, jewels in general and throws in several pages that may be the best history of the dinner jacket ever written.
The remainder of the book is an eclectic compendium of topics such as London clubs, gambling venues and drinking establishments; advice on wines and foods from caviar to chocolate; gifts for women; manners; tobacco and a comprehensive selection of cocktails that includes a full page on the history of the Vesper Martini. Fine stuff, and accompanied by the author's encouragement that the content should be enjoyed while smoking and drinking.
I concur.
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4 comments:
I very much like these sorts of books and never tire of dipping into them on Sunday afternoons. But there is one gripe: the business of associating smoking/drinking as something essentially gentlemanly.
I don't deny the fact that it was common (though not universal), but that it gives up-and-coming students of classic style the idea that part of the outfit requires smoking fat cigars and getting hammered on whiskey. I've never really enjoyed the connection of tobacco and hard liquor with 'being a gentleman'.
Gorgeous. This was an era when all men were gentlemen, even if they were rougues. Thanks for posting!
Roger, there is nothing gentlemanly about getting hammered, but the fact of the matter is that traditionally, smoking and drinking hard liquor were the habits (vices?) of men.
Times change; trends change; fashions change. Smoking is now declasse, and the three-martini lunch is so far in the past that it isn't even a punchline anymore.
A gentleman is not defined by his accoutrements, nor by his incidental habits. He is defined by his behavior, which will necessarily include consideration for others, which necessarily includes dressing appropriately for the situation and showing respect to others who are present.
In regards to smoking & drinking, it's not whether, it's how that defines a gentleman—as well as how he deals with others' smoking & drinking.
I really like books of this sort and use them regularly as a source for reference in my work. Thanks go to this blog for highlighting such tomes. Tim Hardy
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