I spent half an hour drinking coffee in the lobby of the San Francisco Hilton the other day, leafing through Nicholas Storey's History of Men's Accessories (Pen & Sword Books 2011), which will be reviewed here once I have had the time to actually read it, while noting absently that half the suit-wearing and trade show attending men walking around were wearing deadly dull black suits, and all but one of the rest were in a shade of gray if you were interested.
I was there for a fitting with W. W. Chan, for that is the only reason to ever be in that Hilton when one lives in the area. Patrick Chu and colleague were their normal amenable and impeccably prepared selves, and the to-be-fit blue cashmere and cotton suit closer to perfect than any of their previous efforts. It was close enough to tempt me to forgo a fitting on the Finmeresco blazer that they will bring back with them in July, but I did not yield.
The day being gloomy and the time late afternoon, none of the photography was usable of course, save for the customary shot of a Donegal tweed swatch. This one being one of Porter & Harding's Thornproofs of 560 grams (17 ounces) and what is a man to do with that unless he lives out of doors? The light gray mix in the photo would make a lovely topcoat, or a short cape if one were to stop suppressing his inner Sherlock Holmes, but a jacket would be almost unwearable in a heated space. Were it not for that small detail the pattern would make a perfect suit for the suburbs where I spend the majority of my time these days. And they do make the stuff in a more useable-for-me 14 ounce (420 gram) weight.
Though my mind was set on olive green gabardine for the future when the day began, it was full of gray Donegal as it came to an end.
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6 comments:
Will, I'm a huge fan of heavy weight cloth. I have a 17 oz cheviot suit that gets a full six months per year of wear, and a 20 oz cavalry twill that I can wear on all but the warmest summer days. I'm in Newport Beach, but if I lived in SF, I might be able to wear them year round! OK, I'll admit that REALLY heavy tweeds and flannels might wear a bit warm, but to me there's very little difference between a 10 oz worsted and one that's 20 oz. I realize I'm getting a little off topic, but these heavyweights are so superior, and the only way they will continue to be made is if influential bespoke customers like you champion them!
At an Irish Crafts Fair I recently met with Eddie Doherty of Adara, Co. Donegal, one of only two remaining handweavers of Donegal Tweed. A lovely fellow who weaves excellent distinctive cloth and is incredibly passionate about his craft.
The men's garments he occasionally sells are made up by Magee from cloth he supplies to them, and he sells his cloth direct to retail customers and accepts custom weaving commissions.
His website is www.handwoventweed.com. I'm sure if you emailed him he would be delighted to forward some swatches.
A lovely post, WIll, irrespective of the many merits of the argument... you do much to bring a bit of gentility to my busy days.
a three piece would be great
Donegal in most colors takes some beating in terms of the quiet elegance it exudes. I can't speak about today but 50-60 years ago it was a popular business suiting (usually in grey) amongst the Irish professional classes.
Hello,
I'm always keen to spread the word of Irish craftsmen and women, here are a few more sites for sources of Donegal tweed.
Besides W. Bill Ltd. in London, handwoven tweeds in a single width (90cm/36") are only available from http://www.kevinandhowlin.com/ & www.studiodonegal.ie/
Powerloom woven Donegals are available from Magee www.mageeireland.com/ & John Molloy of Ardara, www.johnmolloy.com
Other Irish weavers are www.johnhanly.com, www.foxfordwoollenmills.com
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