The weather was cool to start the week but sunny, finally, and temperatures are expected to climb daily until they are in the 70s Fahrenheit (more than 21 C). So I rather optimistically took a light-weight suit out of storage, planning to wear it later in the week if those dreams do come true, even as I tied the red checked wool bow in the photo to go with my tweed. I hope it will be my last wool tie until autumn unless I have cause to visit the Southern Hemisphere this summer.
Just as a man gets tired of his winter suits before the change of the season, I have to admit that I have had enough of cashmere and wool neckties. I have been wearing little else these past months. Oh, there has been the odd madder of course as well as a grenadine or three, but the matte finish of challis and its peers is so compatible with tweed and flannel that my silk repps and jacquards have for the most part hung in the closet all winter. Now comes their time to shine, literally reflecting the light of spring.
I think of neckties in four groups lately. I like grenadines and silk knits for year-round wear; wool, cashmere, and madder for cool weather; linen, shantung and tussah silk for hot; and my conventional silks are relegated to spring through fall. This has something to do with what seems to be a continually increasing bent toward texture over color in my dress and it is personal rather than any kind of a fashion trend.
All that aside, the time for silk has hopefully now begun.
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12 comments:
Lovely combination Will. I notice your shirt has a placket, something I wore without much thought on ready-to-wear button-down collared shirts throughout prep school. I've recently ordered some shirts made, two of which will sport a similar placket along with soft button-down collars and a chest pocket. These shirts are for casual and sports wear, of course, but it recently occurred to me that I might, on occasion, want to wear either with a tie (or tieless) with a casual summer odd jacket.
Can you comment on the placket's place in a man's shirt wardrobe? Depending on your answer I might have to phone my shirt-maker and alter the order.
Never gave plackets much thought. All my shirts have them save for one pique formal shirt, even my pleated dinner shirts.
Thanks for giving us your thoughts on the alignment of tie material with the season. I too am moving towards a focus on texture over pattern in my suit and wardrobe. There is a certain richness in focusing on a subtle textural detail that allows you to appear well dressed without calling attention to your clothing.
Why does every post have a weather report?
Because a man dresses for the locale, the season, the event and the weather in roughly that order.
And we had a long Fall (starting last June with the cold summer).
I think I'm too young for such ties, but I like this composition very much! :)
A peaked lapel sport coat, daring . . . would you offer a similar bow tie in the shop - the color and pattern speak, can you provide details? I've found wool bow ties that tie well are difficult to find.
As it happens I do offer that bow tie in the ASW shop. It's a red and midnight blue tartan check with a green hairline overcheck.
As I understand it, shirt plackets are just a bit of detail that is used on barrel cuffed shirts but not on double cuff. they are less formal in my opinion. So if you like them for some barrle cuffs but prefer not to have them on double cuffs, that would be the general rule. Of course it is all a matter of taste.
What is the make of that sport coat/suit jacket? Daddy likes it :)
It's a suit made from a limited edition tweed that was woven for the London Lounge Cloth Club about ten years ago.
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