Sunday, May 15, 2011
Identifying appropriate cloth for spring odd jackets is a difficult chore. A man wants something lighter than the lightest tweed, meaning 12 ounces/360 grams or less, and the worsted tweed weaves are too faux for my taste. There is linen of course, and blue or tan jackets in fresco, Finmeresco and the usual high twist subjects, but there is a limit to the number of those one can entertain and it is reached fairly quickly. And so one thumbs through Glenroyal, Moonbeam and the other books of lighter weight cloth looking for something to replace a certain venerable city worsted, without success. That time is here again.
Now the old books remind us that gaberdine odd jackets used to be popular for the season, and my 12 ounce/360 gram tan gaberdine suit, like the one in the illustration, is certainly perfect for this time of year. Further, a gray would be a nice choice for a city jacket, like the coat worn by the older man so long as it is not paired with that not terribly complementary necktie. But just try and find one. All the shades that are available are either too dark in color for an odd jacket, or too lightweight. There is a very nice pale gray in the Scabal gaberdine book but naturally they have made it as a Super 150s so they can crank the price to near cashmere levels and in a 9 ounce/270 gram weight so it will be too cool-wearing for our sunny sixty degree (16C) San Francisco summers. The hunt continues.