If there is a time of year when the much maligned (in this space) Super 1xx wools come into their own, it begins in May. Supers tend to be made in what used to be thought of as tropical weights because lighter cloth uses less raw material and the customer can always buy a topcoat if he gets cold, which makes them the second best choice for warm weather business suits (the best of course are those high twist wools like Minnis fresco and Smith's Finmeresco that breathe but then I have written about them many times before and they are not available in ready to wear). So while too many retailers offer only warm weather clothing year-round, it does have a place and that is now.
The advantages of seven to nine ounce Super 120s and finer cloth are that it is light-weight, tends to wrinkle less than cotton or linen, and comes without the sheen of mohair that is not every man's cup of daywear tea. And of course it is available, which few of the high twists are on the ready to wear racks. That combination of qualities says to me that men contemplating leaving ready to wear clothing behind in favor of having their things made as I believe they should, ought probably to begin by commisioning some cold weather clothing. For if there is one time of year when the suits on the racks at the better department stores come into their own, this is it.
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4 comments:
Sorry, Will, I have to disagree. I detest the lightweight high super cloths. Too soft, too gutless, too quick to wear out, too prone to end-of-day rumpling, they wear hot in summer, cold in winter and don't breathe. They're also too common; department store racks are full of them,so they're hardly distinctive. I think anyone who has his clothes made can do far better.
Sorry, Will, I reread your post and and don't see much cause for disagreement. I wasted good money on a bespoke super 150 suit many years ago, and I still can't let it go . . . .
Agreed Will. I don't like linen as a suiting because after an hour it looks like you slept in it. Cotton/wool mix gaberdine stays looking good but otherwise it has to be one of the lightweight wools. I've four that are over ten years old and always look good at the end of the day.
Most decent tailors worth their craft will deter a client from the super 1xx's....for much the same reason that Carl mentioned. So, I am a bit surprised.
My tailor still chides me about my penchant for compulsive cloth purchases without consulting him first. A few Loro Piana bespokes sit in the closet used no more than once.
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