Friday, June 3, 2011

The White Parts Must Be Suede

The two-toned correspondent or spectator shoe and the American saddle shoe in either brown or black combined with white or cream are staples of summer. And the key to wearing any of these properly is that the white portions of either must be suede, whether Nubuck, reversed goat, hard to find buckskin or some other material and never, ever, white calf.

White calf you see exists only to make either shoe a little less expensive to sell and significantly easier to maintain, giving up as it does the contrast between shiny leather and matte suede that is the essence of the combination. That concession in turn says all the wrong things about the wearer's priorities. Far better to give up the two-toned look all together, for a shoe made entirely from unlined white or ivory suede, ideally with a red rubber or brown crepe sole, is handsome and seasonally apropriate as well as an uncompromising choice that is significantly easier to maintain.

The white parts must be suede.

Photo: Olof Enckell

7 comments:

Julian said...

Will, is the Edward Green Malvern in chestnut and canvas twill permissible? :)

JR said...

The pictured shoes are beautiful. Who makes them? And can you give some suggestions for other good examples of the spectator shoe? Thanks, JR

Franklin said...

Will,

Would medallion wingtip slip-on spectators in calfskin and suede be equally appropriate? Or must spectators always be lace-ups?

maria said...

Check out the Crockett and Jones ones, the best around. I dont like the idea of Suede one little bit.

Carl said...

Excellent advice. Unfortunately I haven't followed it.

How hard are those shoes to keep clean? I note that on my solid white bucks, the toes and heels get dirty, the rest stays pretty clean. the calf/buck combination may not be that hard to care for after all.

paulreuben said...

Where did you obtain the cap-toe spectator shoes?

Will said...

Those are Gaziano & Girling bespoke.

 
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