There was a box awaiting me when I returned home last night, and it included what I think of as my greatest clothing extravagance, that being the cream cashmere double breasted odd vest in the photograph. It is an extravagance not so much because it is cashmere, as vests use only half a yard or so of the stuff, but because the cloth weighs about 17 ounces (500 grams) and the weather in San Francisco may never allow me to wear it.
Cream odd vests go back to George Brummell himself, who wore his with a navy blue coat and tan breeches. I shall wear mine with single breasted lounge suits in winter weights as a visual change of pace from self vests. Double breasted vests complement single breasted jackets, in my opinion, and the cut is just rare enough to add interest to an otherwise conservative ensemble. That said, there remains the issue of when the temperature will permit it to be worn and I will admit that I did have a plan when I ordered the thing. I hope to wear it to the Pitti Uomo menswear show in Florence this coming January where it will be in good company next to the Italian peacocks who frequent the place.
I am indebted to Mr. Graham Lawless of London's Davies & Son who sourced the cloth and, of course, Peter Harvey who has made several terrific examples of this style for me. And no need to write asking me to model the thing. The weather is too warm.
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11 comments:
Very nice Will. I am sure there will be plenty of cold windy days and evenings that will require a vest of that heft. Can't wait till winter!
Crank the A/C and give it a spin!
Lovely vest, but it looks white rather than buff.
Does the website and photography reflect the true color?
It is cream not buff, which I think of as tan. The color is accurate.
According to my sources, Brummell wore buff trousers and cream waistcoats.
Is that keystone difference I see, if any, left from right, traditional?
[Can't make out the buttoning on the AA/Esky drawing of the man in the brown suit fumbling for a tip for the hat girl, you know the one, or Dr. Churchwell's, or your country cloth/city details, large check brown suit].
Is this not a bit anachronistic today? Or is this just a fun piece primarily for events like Pitti? How is it worn? (i.e. lounge suit, odd jacket ensemble, stroller suit). Perhaps if I ever find the time and money to assemble a stroller suit I will go for this kind of vest. It's really gorgeous.
Am I not a bit anachronistic? It will principally be worn as the vest to my gray flannel suit.
I love an odd waistcoat, especially a double breasted one. I imagine that will go very well with a gray flannel suit. Very nice!
Will, could you comment on the workmanship?
Nothing equals the Davies vest. It is entirely handsewn. A work of art.
How does it compare to your other vests?
Mark, the piece is already in storage until cool weather returns.
That is beautiful. Not something I'd wear, but I could see it work perfectly on you with grey flannel, and possibly with blue.
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