One of the difficult things about summer is that adherence to proper custom can sometimes place a man in dire straits, sartorially speaking. Take, for example, George Hamilton and Nick Foulkes in their summer suits in Antibes, France last year. The event was in the evening, so naturally that meant black shoes. I have worn them together myself but, sadly, black shoes and cream or white suits are not a match made in heaven. Better a light colored jacket with dark trousers.
Photo: Dave M. Benett/Getty Images
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16 comments:
I recently found myself facing this very conundrum.
Would a dark brown shoe be an acceptable compromise?
I would do as Tom Wolfe most frequently does if I were somehow forced
into both buying and then wearing a white suit. Namely black/white specs.
However, I agree completely with Will that the question should be avoided altogether.
I recently attended a charity dinner where a West Point cadet wore his summer dress uniform of a white cotton drill suit with a belted safari coat with metal buttons. The look is very colonial.
I noticed that the cadet had black shoes which appeared a little jarring.
Black shoes are proper although a civilian can get away with medium with dark shoes for evening
Surely, plain white buckskin oxfords/balmorals or maybe navy and white co-respondents/spectators meet the bill. I agree that black looks out of place.
Is anyone else distracted by the fact that Nick Foulkes complexion is washed-out by his pure white suit? Perhaps he should be wearing off white or some other color entirely?
Yes, I agree that he looks washed out. Aside from a different suit, I think a stronger contrasting tie and pocket square would fit his high contrast features much better. Many times I think the summer look of all light tones is overdone and nothing bold is used, especially when an individual has higher contrasting features such as Mr. Foulkes.
There you have two men who wished they'd packed a pair of black trousers!
Odd angle that photo; Nick Foulkes looks like his head has been put onto a midget's body.
I find comfort that esteemed men suggest black shoes are not the only correct option, with allowance for white, non-blucher shoes, or medium dark shoes (not sure how medium is medium) to solve the shock of black at ground level. Maybe it is best as already written to avoid the problem altogether though. Or, arrive well enough before six to uncomfortably rely on what may be a dispensation :
Well dumb ol' me. Would never have supposed black shoes were obligatory after 5:00. No wonder I'm not invited to the right parties.
Yes, black shoes look dreadful in contrast to white suits. Darker trousers would at least provide a transition. I can't agree that spectators solve the problem. (To me, those REALLY ARE a daytime shoe.)
The real problem seems to be that a white suit is a daytime thing. If worn in the evening, then why not break the rules and wear a shade of brown. Aesthetics trump protocol in this situation.
Incidentally, this is not a particularly flattering pic of NF. Much less of a munchkin in other pics taken on same occasion. Check out Google images Finch's Quarterly. Nick appears to be half an inch taller than Hamilton. (Is wearing pale pink shirt.)
Will: Edit this out if you like: But I hate dyed hair. Black hair, pale skin, stark white suit: Too much contrast.
The years have been much kinder to GH.
George Hamilton has been working on his tan for the past several decades. Everyone looks pale next to him.
However, even without Mr. Hamilton by his side, Mr. Foulkes does not appear to be flattered by the stark white of his suit.
Agreed that darker trousers would have solved the black-and-white conundrum.
I think both men look terrific and do not share in some of the harsher comments on their appearance that I have read here. Yes the black shoes appear a bit strong in contrast but so what? Both men are wearing the greatest of suits, cut from the finest cloth and with flattering fit and lines. The shirts and ties are tasteful. Both men should at the very least be commended for keeping up standards in this benighted age of ours. Foulkes is even wearing a waistcoat with watch!
I think navy albert slippers would work well.
Foulkes and Hamilton are both above reproach. As such they could have gotten away with white shoes. The black shoes in the evening rule is one that begs to be flauted, at least in this case.
What is it with wearing slippers outside the house?
Black shoes are correct. Specs would not be.
For the rest...nonsense. Hamilton in particular looks great: off-white suit and strong tie and ps help. Foulkes would have been better off not choosing such a pale shirt, tie and ps - and maybe a 1/4 inch off the break and 1/2 inch off the jacket.
Why am I bothering?
I have an easier solution. Drop the white suit.
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