Cotton grows on a man. I have written many times before that it wears out shortly after you put it on for the first time, making cotton tailored clothing about as expensive as clothing gets on a cost per wear basis, but regular readers are aware that I did break down and commission a couple pieces for the suburbs where I spend too much of my life. And in doing so I was joining noted menswear author G. Bruce Boyer (GBB), whose cotton blazer by Cheo Bespoke is showing its stuff in the photograph.
By the way, GBB's new book, Gary Cooper: Enduring Style (with Maria Cooper Janis) is scheduled to be released by powerhouse Books in November, 2011. Cooper of course was one of Hollywood's leading men for decades, and the book will feature 150 never before published photographs of the man and his life, including his under-appreciated wardrobe. It's already being offered at a discount so I recommend you click over to Amazon and pre-order copies for everyone you know right now while you are thinking about it. And now we return to our regularly scheduled programming.
GBB is notably stylish himself, and his blazer is a lovely example of the Scholte drape cut, which is distinguished by the vertical folds of cloth inside the armholes. Seen as a flaw by the uninitiated, a bit of drape gives a coat that nicely relaxed look that keeps so many American customers returning to Anderson & Sheppard, the best-known proponent of the drapey silhouette. But it is obvious that the coat in the photos is not A&S. For one thing, the buttons are horn. A&S uses plastic.
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4 comments:
Love the blazer, Will. I just wish it wasn't missing the other buttonhole.
(sigh!) Now the question is, how close can one approach such an elegant coat in RTW? Who out there makes a navy odd jacket with peaked lapels. Horn buttons can be added later, if necessary.
Franklin, it's not missing. He's leaving it unbuttoned on purpose to distinguish it as bespoke.
Some think this is too flamboyant or even irritating, but it is very common in Europe. I thought it was a bit much at first, but now I rather like it.
I'm sure that leaving the last button on the waist coat or cardigan unbuttoned must've gone through the same amount criticsm before becoming an ubiquity.
Other than the obvious sign of quality and the inherent beauty in the feel of horn, is there any inherent advantage in horn v. plastic buttons?
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