Thomas Mahon of tailors English Cut learned his craft at Savile Row's Anderson & Sheppard under the guidance of managing director Mr Dennis Hallberry, whose contribution to English tailoring is indelible.
But Mahon is also an innovator. His blog ‘English Cut’ built his brand early on and gives him a unique connection with his customers. The blog also ensures that he is seen not just as a master tailor but also as an educator in an industry that has traditionally been both private and understated.
Thomas's latest innovation shows that he is also a business man. And while his bespoke services starting at $3530 (£2260) for a suit may be out of reach to many people who appreciate fine tailoring, prices from $2160 (£1400) for made to measure are considerably more accessible.
So what is the compromise? Quite simply the only concession is that English Cut MTM suits will be made in India. Mahon is open and honest about this. He has invested many trips of several weeks at a time sourcing and training a highly skilled team that he is confident to entrust with his name and reputation.
Last week's launch of the made to measure line featured a short film highlighting the time Thomas spent working with the tailors in India. Surrounded by a collection of well crafted suits, coats and jackets, he eulogised the skill and craftsmanship of his Indian team, one of them singled out for special praise being skilled beyond his years at just 25 years old.
Though made to measure rather than to a pattern made for the individual, the new English Cut line features much more hand stitching than most if not all Savile Row bespoke suits as well as the unstructured shoulders and modest drape that are Thomas's tailoring trademark and beautifully formed lapels that roll properly. Nor is there any compromise in the cloth, which comes from bespoke quality sources such as W. Bill.
English Cut made to measure is currently available directly from Thomas at his studio in Cumbria or by appointment in London (a new shop will be opening there shortly).
This post was contributed by Christian Price from London. Visit Christian on the web at http://www.thelongwing.com/.
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3 comments:
I'm still rather confused about the difference between M2M and 'bespoke'. There is the cutting and the tailoring.
AFAIK in M2M the cutting involves relating the customer's measurements to a series of standard, graded patterns and a compromise is then sent for tailoring. In this case it appears that the tailoring is at least of the bespoke quality.
But, of course that is what the bespoke cutter does, except in this case the patterns are according to rules that (s)he has learned.
The only real difference, therefore, is in the slight adjustments that a bespoke tailor will make after the various fitting stages to ensure a perfect fit and, perhaps, some enhancement to the figure.
So, for perfection you are paying twice as much. It all seems to depends, therefore, on how standard are one's measurements and on the skill of the bespoke tailor. Is this correct?
Nice post. Where did the photo of that smoking jacket come from, and do you know if that is a bespoke piece or an MTM option?
Jonathan, correct. In this case the idea is you are saving some money on the cost of the tailoring as well but not on the quality.
Michael, that is a mtm piece. The photo was taken at the launch event.
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