It is cool in Manhattan, where I am headed for a party, and that was cause for the first flannels of the season. Both suit and necktie are a change from the mid-weight worsteds and silk ties that are more appropriate for the last days of our warm California autumn.
The suit is actually related to yesterday's post about Anderson & Sheppard. I started working with Peter Harvey, who made it, after coming to the realization that though the A&S double breasteds are very good the button point on the single breasteds is too damn low and exposes more waistcoat than any reasonable man wants. So for some time Peter has been making my SBs in what the Italians characterize as the hard, military style typical of Savile Row while Thomas Mahon, who learned his craft at A&S, has continued making soft, drapey double breasteds for me.
I don't mind the conflict. It puts me in a New York state of mind. And there is not all that much difference between the two anyway.
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6 comments:
Marvelous suit. Will, your morning comments brighten my day and make me want to dress better. Thank-you.
This is among my favorites from your closet, Will. I hope you enjoy your New York trip!
Will, is that the London Lounge "Eden in Paris" Cloth?
Also, how many tailors do you have? What do you think are the benefits to having more than one?
It is.
Each tailor does something that the others don't, like make unlined jackets, and using several means that when one has a problem I still have things arriving. Twice it's happened that a tailor has literally lost anywhere from three to six things that I'd been waiting for six months - I no longer order more than one at a time per tailor.
I like a (slightly) lower buttoning point on some of my sport coats. I know it's probably sacriledge, but I sometimes wear them with jeans, which have a lower rise than proper trousers. The lower buttoning point on the jacket eliminates the hideous triangle of exposed shirt below the button. The other solution, I suppose, would be closed quarters, but I find that less appealing than the lower button stance.
Your answer about multiple tailors for multiple purposes makes sense. My friends at Richard Anderson have some very strong opinions about what clothes should be--they detest an unlined, lightly constructed jacket, for example. That's fine with me, but if I ever wanted something one it would be better to get it from another tailor than to ask them to do something they'd rather not.
On the other hand, If like me you have a tailor you really like, and you don't order many clothes, it's probably better not to split your custom.
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