Monday, January 16, 2012

The Tailor of Florence


There are a couple bespoke tailors in Florence but only one of them has an international reputation. That of course is Liverano & Liverano, the firm whose principal distinguishing characteristic is a suit with a short jacket featuring perhaps the world's most open quarters that requires seventy hours to make (compared to perhaps thirty hours for a Savile Row firm and forty for a Neapolitan suit, with Liverano's pricing proportionate to the Neapolitans) because it is sewn almost completely by hand. The back seam of the jackets may be sewn by machine but it is a mystery how this is accomplished. There are no sewing machines in sight.


Some portion of Liverano's reputation is due to Mark Cho of The Armoury, a tailoring customer whose store supports Antonio Liverano's three visits to Hong Kong each year (I walked by Liverano three times last week and Mr. Cho was visible twice as I passed). Antonio also visits Japan but not the United States. That is he in the photo, which also illustrates a typical Liverano coat.


The Liverano shop has a small retail section in front, a fitting room, and then several workrooms strung in a circle around the rear. The neckties are sewn locally, and they are a good choice for the clothing lover's souvenir of Florence.

10 comments:

OldSchool said...

Am I mistaken, or is Signore Liverano's jacket at least two sizes two small?

Will said...

You are mistaken.

Roger v.d. Velde said...

It was mentioned that that the jackets feature "..perhaps the world's most open quarters..."
It's not two sizes too small, it just looks two sizes too small because it gapes. And the left side also looks lower than the right. Probably the way he's standing; he looks a bit dishevelled, but I suppose he's a busy man at work.

Those silvery shears in the workshop photo are excellently enormous. I'll bet you had a great time there.

oldsarj said...

I can't deal with the look. It may be acceptable on one of my very short Italian ancestors but I take after the Welsh side of the family and a coat cut that short on a six footer looks ludicrous. If his customers like it they can wear it but Will, you just showed me a place to avoid, with vigor!

OldSchool said...

That was a rhetorical question, sir.

Kurt said...

With that vest, the fight to look like the clothes fit is already lost, methinks.

seitelman said...

I think that you caught the owner on a bad day. He looks quite elegant in the photos posted on Amoury.

Perhaps a redo is in order?

kc said...

Will,

Who is the 2nd noteworthy Florentine tailor?

Will said...

I think the eye is distracted by the necktie at the bottom of his vest. As to the rest, he is captured as he was.

lorenzo said...

All people in the workroom look very young. This seems promising for the future of the firm (and for the future of italian tayloring as well)

 
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