Of all the menswear advertisements in the media these days I like the Polo Purple Label ads best, for their use of color and pattern if not for the extreme cut of the clothes themselves. The pocket square in the first photo is a spectacular choice.
The stylist(s) who did the campaign were well grounded in the past. In the photo, a brown dinner jacket a la Noël Coward.
The once common scarf worn in lieu of a necktie on less formal occasions, though I could do without the shirt collar.
And my personal favorite, a leather jacket and cardigan combination that recalls a portrait of the late Prince Serge Obolensky.
-Photos: Ralph Lauren
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9 comments:
They do have that late 1950s Eastmancolor look about them. And the first one looks hand-coloured!
I rather like the cut - being on the slim side myself - and that collar in the third shot reminds me of the sort of thing Roger Moore would wear in the early Saint when in warm climates (or rather under the hot lights at Elstree Studios!).
The brown dinner jacket is indeed sublime.
That brown evening ensemble is amazing isn't it. I have to admit I wasn't convinced by the recent photo of Coward's set, but it looks amazingly elegant.
I think it would still look good under tungsten lights too.
I've noticed the same thing. Particularly covet the suit in the top photo.
The models make me ill but I, too, have to admire the leather and cardigan ensemble. Something cut a bit more traditionally could well find its way into my closet sometime during the coming four years that remain of my makeover.
Dear Will,
I was wondering if you could tell me which Savile Row tailors offer the classic, high and narrow waisted silhouette as in the images from Apparel Arts and Gentleman's Gazette on your website, or if these are just idealistic representations and you need a certain build to get that look?
Yours,
Henry
Henry,
I don't believe there are any Gentleman's Gazette images on ASW, though we have been around quite a bit longer and some images may appear on both sites.
Most of the Row cuts that silhouette in one way or another, including Huntsman, Dege, Richard Anderson and Davies and Son.
Yes, I like Lauren's Purple stuff, too. But will much happier when this skinny phase of fashion is passe'. It is NOT classic... and will be as dated and laughable as 80s shoulder pads are today.
@ John
I'd beg to differ. Fitted suits (especially the coat) are not just a modern fashion phase and it absolutely does have a place in classic tailoring.
Tailors cut for slim men too and there were/are enough around to make it a common look, nay book of classic fashion plates or old movie star photos shows that. The suits in the photos above are not skinny, just a leaner cut. There has to be more variety to tailored tradition than the sack suit.
I always think that the models in these modern adverts look as though they have been carved from wood and I think back to the great Dormeuil adverts of the 1970s in which the male/female models had a look of comfort and relaxation about them.
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