Sunday, March 18, 2012
The basted jacket in the photo is made of cloth from John G. Hardy's Ascot book, an 8 1/2 ounce (250 gram) blend of 52% Super 120's merino wool and 48% silk in dark navy blue with a gray overcheck, a smooth finish and a luxurious hand. When finished in a couple of months it will be a 3 roll 2 with patch pockets and black buttons.
Though silk blends may wear too hot for men in truly warm climates, 8 1/2 ounces is summer cloth for San Francisco. The jacket will be worn on the same sort of occasions that one might wear a blue blazer, with fresco trousers the same shade as the check and perhaps a raspberry herringbone silk and linen necktie.
Aside from dupioni in solid colors, silk jacketings are becoming increasingly difficult to find and Ascot is primarily an all merino bunch these days. There are only a few of the silk designs remaining and, in common with so much other great cloth, there are apparently no plans to replace it once it is gone. This is some of the last of it.