Wednesday, March 21, 2012
Cotton is a popular cloth for summer's tailored clothing. When we think of it, we think of cotton twills, gabardines or perhaps seersucker, but there is a route less travelled. Lightweight pinwale cotton corduroy, like the jacket and trousers worn by the late Duke of Windsor at Biarritz in 1951, is very wearable and actually drapes better than its heavier relations (the heavier cords make great trousers but less than completely satisfactory jackets as the wider wales make the stuff too stiff). Like other summer jackets, lightweight corduroy should have patch pockets and a minimal lining (the paddock cut is optional).
According to Esquire's Encyclopedia of 20th Century Men's Fashion, when pinwales first became popular in the 1920's navy, brown and blue gray were the most popular summer colors and Brisbane Moss makes a 7 wales per inch 190 gram (6 1/2 ounce) corduroy in those colors still (that weight will probably crease as soon as you look at it and the 300 gram is likely to be much more practical, if also considerably warmer wearing). No lobster bisque though.