Wednesday, April 18, 2012
Two Birds And One Stone
There are few occasions that call for formal day wear any longer. In the United Kingdom of course, it is worn with some frequency: on Easter Sunday, to weddings and funerals, to work by certain bank managers and, for some reason that has never been explained to me, to the races. In the United States it is still seen at the Supreme Court, a minuscule proportion of weddings and that is about it. Given that weddings and funerals occur perhaps twice before we gain or lose twenty pounds, owning the stuff in America would seem prohibitively expensive on a cost per wear basis.
There is however another way to think about it. The classic day wear combination consists of black shoes, striped or checked trousers, linen waistcoat and cut-away coat. A conventional jacket can be substituted for the cutaway however and, when that jacket is double breasted, the waistcoat done away with. When trousers and jacket are worn together, as they are in the Esquire illustration, the semi-formal (in the same way that the dinner jacket is a semi-formal version of a tailcoat) combination is called a stroller. But together is not the only way to wear the components. Paired with gray flannel trousers, the jacket is simply a dressy black blazer that if anything is easier to wear during the work week than the usual navy blue. And the checked trousers can be worn separately with a variety of solid jackets (this is less true for stripes and is a good reason to choose checks instead). Then when an appropriate occasion does arise, the two pieces can simply be re-united.
This reasoning occurs to me because I wore my black jacket out a couple of years ago and have been procrastinating about a replacement. But I do need another city odd jacket and this time I think I am going to kill two metaphorical birds with one metaphorical stone.
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11 comments:
I love daytime formal wear, especially the stroller. Compared to what one sees at many daytime weddings,a three button notch lapel 'tuxedo' worn with a long tie for example, a stroller looks so elegant.
I was wondering if there are many differences in cut between a stroller and a regular suit jacket. I think it should be one button, with peak lapels and jetted pockets, is that right? I have read that a stroller should be slightly longer than a regular suit coat, is that correct or not? I have even seen some cut like a short cutaway. Are these bona fide strollers or fabrications of a rental company?
Steve
I can never understand why someone didn't try to keep the short-form morning dress-cum-stroller alive as a smart and practical set of clothing, for mixing and matching and replacing trousers, without worrying about cloth matching with the coat. The checked trousers and the lighter cashmere stripes are really quite dashing.
Timely. I have a black suit (I know, I know, it was purchased pre-A Suitable Wardrobe) that I never wear, and I wanted to split the pieces up. I've been wearing the black trousers with a light beige sport coat and want to wear the black coat with gray trousers. My question, though, is how do I get it to not look like a mismatched suit jacket?
I hit upon the same solution for semiformal day wear and, over the years, have purchased various tailored clothing with just such double duty in mind. Presently, when the rare appropriate occasion arises, in the fall/winter I wear the coat to this charcoal gray DB flannel suit with the trousers to this charcoal/mid-gray check flannel suit or the trousers to this light gray flannel chalk stripe suit:
http://www.styleforum.net/t/234255/hof-what-are-you-wearing-right-now-part-iii/20955#post_5121083
http://www.styleforum.net/t/234255/hof-what-are-you-wearing-right-now-part-iii/21165#post_5127601
http://www.styleforum.net/t/234255/hof-what-are-you-wearing-right-now-part-iii/21435#post_5144401
Similarly, in the spring/summer, I wear this black doeskin DB odd jacket with the trousers to this lightweight gray flannel chalk stripe suit:
http://www.styleforum.net/t/234255/hof-what-are-you-wearing-right-now-part-iii/15720#post_4898738
http://www.styleforum.net/t/230619/cbd-waywrn-an-experiment/6300#post_5301809
The coats are both side vented, which is two more vents per coat than optimal for a stroller; and they have flapped pockets, but the flaps can be tucked as the pockets are jetted both top and bottom.
As much clothing as I have (too much), I don’t like anything to hang unworn for long periods. That, I fear, would be the fate of dedicated semiformal day wear if I purchased it.
Turling, it's not likely anyone will notice. If it were a blue suit the buttons might give it away. But black jackets usually have black buttons so you should be fine.
I'll join in the spirit of saying the semi-formal stroller looks great.
I don't know that the blue, as compared to black, is so obvious when splitting a suit. I often split up a linen/silk blue suit and wear the coat with grey checked trousers, mostly for warmer weather.
I don't know what it is about black jackets by I find them hard to match. It's probably my fault. The only black coat I regularly wear is a top-coat.
As yet, I lack the contrast collar shirt; other than that, I have all the pieces for a stroller (black double-breasted jacket (4x1); several wedding ties; houndstooth trousers; plain black shoes). I also have a Homburg to wear with it all.
Following Will's suggestion that the parts can be separated, I wore the jacket with gray trousers, a pink shirt with French cuffs, and a wedding tie on Easter Sunday. With two parts "wrong" (shirt & pants), I don't feel like I'm almost, but not quite, wearing a stroller.
I also pinned the collar, something I have not seen in any of the classic illustrations of strollers. Will, what are your thoughts about a pinned collar with a stroller?
Will,
what about the trousers, from the picture we can see they have crease, but do they or don't they have to have pleat?
Why not do as I have just done and get a three piece houndstooth suit to make the combination even more flexible.
culverwood - that is what I did when I had my morning coat made: I had a 3 pc small, black and white hounds'-tooth suit; a black 3 pc suit and a morning coat and cashmere striped trews all made at the same time (the morning coat was the same cloth as the black suit), together with a cream vest. Mix and match at will. There were around six good very good combos there. the problem with the modern obsession with discrete 2 and 3 pc 'suits' is that there is not this flexibility - and far more expense.
Tom, always pleated with a DB jacket. An argument can be made either way with a single breasted.
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