A few dollars or minutes saved on the maintenance of one's tailored clothing can be false economy. In my case, when someone tells me I have a spot on the lapel of my blue cotton suit as my wife did the other morning, I respond that it gives the jacket character. Inwardly I kick myself.
I have written in the past that few of what pass in the United States for clothing cleaning establishments know how to press a jacket. As exhibit one, note that white mar on the lapel to the left of the top buttonhole in the photograph. That discoloration is from the stress of machine pressing against the underside of the top button on a bespoke three roll two, and that after no more than two pressings.
This of course is my own fault. I generally send my tailored clothing down to Scottsdale, where Stu Bloom's RAVE FabriCare does an impeccable job with it. But, for one reason or another, periodically I decide that it is not convenient to box something up and give it to FedEx and I send a piece or two to the local establishment I consider the best cleaner in the Bay area. Good thinking. Machine pressing of the lapels on a cotton suit will quickly leave them with a white spot. Not the end of the world, but unpleasant nonetheless.
Men can of course send their jackets back to the original tailor in many cases for what is called a sponge and press, where the ironing is done by hand. Unfortunately, for those of us who live considerable distances away this is more difficult than it sounds. Besides the time, cost and risk of tranoceanic shipping there is the need to deal with the not inconsiderable bureaucracy that our Department of Homeland Security has created to keep this country safe(r) from those who would threaten our way of life - and I have a suit held in Customs as I write to demonstrate that this is not always easy. But, despite the incentives to keep things local, I proved to myself once again that it is better to do business with someone who deals with comparable items regularly, no matter how far away they may be.
In the photo, a cashmere and cotton suit is paired with a gray pick and pick shirt, a vintage silk pocket square, and a knit necktie. The gold pin is optional.
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5 comments:
Distrust of the cleaners informs my clothing choice. I buy the heaviest fabrics possible in the belief that they're less likely to crease or bag, and more likely to hang out without help. That way all that's needed is a good brush, some spot remover and and a (very) little steam.
Summer becomes an issue, of course, so I'm always on the lookout for heavier cloth that wears cool. 14/15 oz Fresco is great, but unfortunately it only comes in four (dark) colors.
Will, what summer weight cloths are most crease-resistant and likely to hang out?
I wear ten ounce frescos, 12 ounce Solaro and 10 ounce mohair and wool blends with minimal wrinkling and am having good luck with Lesser 8/9 and 9/10 ounce cloth.
I've avoided "dry cleaning" out of fear of ruining my clothing or, at the very least, use of a host of harmful chemicals to myself and my wares. Eventually I'm going to need a local purveyor to care for some of my wardrobe, though, as I, too, cannot send everything to RAVE. Do you know of a directory of thoughtful and trustworthy cleaners?
You could always get them to press it again and make it into a straight three button coat - and just have the blight repeated! Sorry about that!
I'm lucky to live in NYC, where there's at least one - won't mention them unless asked to by Will - cleaner who, while expensive, is worth every penny.
"Well, we can just clean it, but if I were you I'd take the buttons off, and we'll sew them right back on. $30 extra dollars."
And worth it.
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