All this is relevant to the conversation I had with Thomas Mahon of English Cut yesterday, one that was almost identical to a discussion with Simon Cundey of Henry Poole earlier this year. And that was about the problem with the tailcoat, or at least the tailoring of it. Few men own one you see, so when they suddenly find themselves about to be knighted or the proud father at a daughter's formal coming out party they have to have one made. And here is the rub. A tailcoat is one of the most complex garments known to tailoring, with just the upper back comprised of no fewer than six separate pieces of cloth that work together to make the coat closely follow the lines of the body. Coordinating all those pieces is a far more difficult task for the few tailors who still know how to do it than the making of today's lounge suit, and requires two or three fittings instead of the usual one and done of Savile Row today.
Want to drive your tailor mad? Order a tailcoat thinking it just like a suit, with only enough time for a single fitting. If they even take the job on, there will be anxiety aplenty about how or whether the thing will fit. And the best case is that it won't, quite.
So, a word to the wise. If you find yourself in need of a tailcoat order well in advance, or plan to spend some time in your tailor's neighborhood where, if they like you enough, they may be able to squeeze a couple fittings into a week. Only please do not tell them I suggested that latter course.
-Photo: Nicole Gagliano
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3 comments:
Dr. Churchwell looks wonderful, as always.
One of the many casualties along the way to our modern world was the silk top hat. I have read that the antique looms on which the silk for top hats was woven were destroyed when a spat between the French brothers who owned them got out of control, so now all new top hats are made of fur. I have also read that the fur hats don't look as good as the silk ones, but I am no expert in this area.
Assuming one wishes to be as traditional as possible and wear a silk topper, well, finding a vintage hat in wearable condition is only half the battle. The hat needs to be polished(!), of course. Take a look at Fred Astaire's silk hat and the sheen on it.* Achieving this high gloss is, it seems, not only difficult, but a very-nearly lost art. Fortunately, at least one top hat aficionado has shared his rediscovery of this arcane process.
In any case, kudos to Dr. Churchwell and all the other men who keep white tie alive.
*Contrary to what the website says, these stills are from 1946's Blue Skies: the famous "Puttin' on the Ritz" sequence.
Will: I truly enjoy following this blog. Quick question: With the upcoming Diamond Jubilee, will the frock coat make a renewed visit in some form? Any news/stories of this nature?
Just don't confuse the impeccable outfit that Dr Churchwell is wearing with daytime formal wear. I'm sure Poole still make morning coats from time to time, but evening tails are a true rarity these days.
Either way, the difficulties of tailoring a bodycoat still apply.
As for Troy's comment, there won't be any frock coats. The King of Tonga wore one at the royal wedding last year, but since his death earlier this year we're unlikely to see another one in London. As for morning coats, you'll see plenty at weddings all summer, and of course at Royal Ascot. Many of the tailors already have examples in their windows.
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