In his Book of the Courtier (1528), Baldassare Castigilione describes wit, sprezzatura, and apparent effortlessness in any endeavour, as ‘’a certain nonchalance, so as to conceal all art and make whatever one does or says appear to be without effort and almost without any thought about it.’’
This, I suggest, should especially be the aim of dressing; after all, dressing is never an end in itself. One dresses for occasions and events; which are in particular places, involving the company of particular people. I have even heard arguments that one should dress just for the particular place (such as a theatre, concert hall or opera house, a restaurant or a hotel, and for professional and business places). I suppose that, if we allowed this argument to influence us, we should at once be rid of the sometimes annoying angst that men seem to feel about appearing ‘over-dressed’ in a suit and tie, amidst a sea of shirt-sleeves and jeans and chinos. There is also a growing caucus of men who shout about not being bound to observe any conventions or norms in dress at all and demonstrate their own particular ‘style’ in some deliberately eye-catching way.
It is, to my mind, far better to leave the eye-catching to the ladies and still to dress smartly and conservatively for smart and conservative places. The sole justification that you need is your respect for the place. Moreover, it is often perfectly obvious where these places are, even if they, themselves, no longer insist on minimum standards (or very high minimum standards), of dress in their patrons but they will often appreciate those who make the effort, and that is worth something in itself.
I am not talking about going to the opera in full evening dress or even black tie (unless the event specifically calls for it) because, in a sea of casual dress, of course you will appear (at best) as an usher or (at worst) a figure of fun. But if you go there in a dark suit along with the better dressed of the other attendees then you fit in and show respect for the place even if the majority of the other men are in shirt-sleeves.
This brings me to the crux of the question: is it possible to dress well anymore, without attracting attention and, maybe, feeling self-conscious and awkward? Probably, because though the outstanding nail - the tailcoat in a sea of denim - may be hammered down, by fitting into the standard of the better dressed men in a place you will feel and appear natural and relaxed without raising many eyebrows. In other words, emulate Matteo Marzotto (second from the left) in the photograph. Dress no more formally than your peers (if you happen to outdo them as to cut or fit more power to you).
We can all do our little bit to bring back the debonair into norms of dress and, maybe, even shame the shirkers into smartening up.
-Text by Nicholas Storey
-Photo by madeinitaly.tv
-Photo by madeinitaly.tv
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10 comments:
I'm not sure just what it is that makes him look better than the others but I suspect the "Italian ground" of blue shirt and dark blue tie may have something to do with it. Must invest in a darker blue tie . . .
Nice piece. I would only add that to achieve true "relaxed dressing" one needs to look relaxed - the footballer protecting his groin pose doesn't look relaxed, nor does the crossed arm look. A hand in the pocket looks laid back.
One of the most notable things about Marzotto's suit is how it combines relaxation and rigor. It fits him so well yet gives him space to breathe. It is so hard to accomplish both in a garment I think.
I agree that Matteo Marzotto looks great, but I find deliberately unbuttoned sleeve buttons to be a bit too show-offy.
He also looks better because his waist is properly covered—but how could it not be, considering that he is wearing a double-breasted jacket?
As long as one is well dressed for a place or occasion, one's peers are not of vital importance in that matter.
Most of the time dressing is an end in itself. Isn't there something artificial in deliberately finding venues in order to dress up? If anyone dresses well, they do it because it's just what they want to do.
The dressed-down majority - always getting the sharp end in the menswear blogosphere - do not spend their lives attending soirées, the opera, the theatre. Which is probably a shame, but that's reality. A reality that has many cut off from that possibility in any case.
Dress for formal occasions has lapsed, it's true, but it's not a law that people have to wear evening clothes, it's only a tragedy for we classic style enthusiasts. And it's not my place to shame other people into adopting my sartorial tastes.
The angst of appearing overdressed is definitely there. Examples and guidance are better for rectifying that, rather than the exhortations that people have no respect for tradition and rules. And in the end some people just don't care about clothes, and that's their prerogative.
Donald,
I think Italian men are required by law to leave some of their sleeve buttons undone.
I, too, find it ostentatious, but there are far worse sartorial sins.
Marzotto does stand out although it helps of course that he's unquestionably the most handsome of the bunch but even without this advantage his well fitted elegance is a model we should all strive to emulate (apparently effortlessly of course). And speaking of wearing appropriate clothes for the occasion surely the prize here has to go to Kaiser Wilhelm II who apparently would attend performances of Wagner's Flying Dutchman wearing the full dress uniform of an admiral in the German navy.
Roger - Making dressing an end in itself is fairly pointless and I certainly do not mean to suggest inventing occasions or finding places for rooting through the dressing up box! I am unsure what gave you that idea. We all know that picture on the www of the guy in full evening dress in an ice cream, parlour...
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