The reason to get the length right is that, when correctly tied, the triangle at the bottom of a tie's front blade should hang approximately within the top and the bottom of the trouser waistband, as the imperfectly executed tie in the first photo is not quite doing. Like any other bespoke however, bespoke neckties take time and very generally cost 50-100% more than ready to wear ties, making them a special occasion purchase for many men. And unless a man is very lucky, most ready to wear neckties will be a couple of inches too long or too short for him.
Taller guys of course do not usually have too much of a problem. A tie that is a couple of inches too short can simply be tied with a shorter rear blade and all is well. It when the tie is too long that things get more complicated.
There are two ways to adjust tie length: the type of knot and the length of the rear blade. As a firm believer in the asymmetrical character of the four in hand, there are only a few alternative knots that makes much of a difference to the tie's length, and the most common of them is to wrap the front blade around the knot an extra time as has been done in the top photo. This produce a somewhat larger but still proportionate knot and uses about two inches of excess length.
The other way to adjust length is used quite often in England and that is to tie the rear blade longer than the front, and then hide the extra silk inside the trouser waistband. Or, if the rear blade is only an inch or less longer than the front, it can be worn untucked as many Italian males do to show their sprezzatura.
Tucking the read blade may crease it horizontally, but this should not be a problem as the crease will be hidden by the front blade of the tie.
Whatever you do, please do not adjust your tie length by tieing a Windsor or a half Windsor. They took his name in vain but the Duke never approved.
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13 comments:
I'm a fairly short guy (5'8") so for one of my 8CM grenadine ties I have to tuck the blade in. Unfortunately, even without a belt, this caused several pulls of the silk which, of course, angered me. I'm not a huge fan of the double four in hand because of the tightness you have to apply to the knot to get it to fit under collars. So really I don't have many options other than buying Drake's slightly shorter 7CM. Doh!
Do you always put your braces buttons on the outside of the waistband? I know that it is old school, but outside of plumbers with avoir du pois I haven't seen it done until your post today
Being afflicted with a short body and long legs I am well aware of the problem of the too-long tie. I haven't yet had the chance to sample bespoke neckties but I do enjoy experimenting with different knots. If you can find a copy I heartily recommend the book The 85 Ways To Tie A Tie by Cambridge research fellows Thomas Fink and Yong Mao. There are really only 13 truly different knots, the remaining 72 being slight variations, but even so I found some to be most effective at using up fabric. My three personal favourites are the Victoria, the Prince Albert and the Cavendish (essentially the double Four-in-Hand you mention). As, like me, you prefer symmetry to your knot (and if you like a challenge!) I would also recommend trying the Dovorian which is a bit of a monster to tie successfully but produces the desired effect perfectly.
I use the last method with longer ties. If you put the rear blade into the front blade's keeper before tucking into the waistband it also keeps everything neat and hidden.
The downside is that tucking the blade can sometimes pull the knot down and ruin any arching of the tie. Ideally I wear otherwise problematic ties under a waistcoat or similar and the issue more-or-less goes away.
Interesting post, albeit I fear the writer may be succumbing to the epidemic of Sprezzatourette's currently sweeping through men's fashion media. A couple of thoughts in addition to the excellent suggestions above: While bespoke ties may be outside the reach of most, perhaps tie alterers like Tiecrafters could shorten the narrow end of the tie for those who are challenged. In addition, most vintage ties are significantly shorter than today's, so that's another source for short ties.
I've had my alterations tailor shorten a couple of ties for me. I don't recall the exact amount but believe it was rather inconsequential (i.e. in the range of having shirtsleeves or trouser legs adjusted).
Very useful. Thanks!
Recently had alteration to a long tie. Rather than shorten from the tip, tie was shortened at seams. (Approximately middle of entire length.) Very satisfactory.
Off topic, but great suit. Consider the pattern matching at the sleeves. Looks like H Lesser, perhaps.
Whilst the four in hand has its place, in a number of circumstances I prefer a half Windsor or Windsor - it is a tad more formal and neater, and if you are not wearing a bespoke tie the additional loop often solves the problems of surplus tie length. Puff Diddy and Jay-Z, however, maybe make the Windsor knot a bit large at times.
Useful advice but I too have concern about sprezzatura. There is a very fine line between sprezzatura and scruffiness. Unless, of course, you are willing to look effortfully stylish: the polar opposite of what - I understand - sprezzatura is meant to be.
When the front blade is positioned ideally, what is the ideal relationship to the rear blade? 1" shorter?
That is overly obsessive. :-)
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