Comments on A Suitable Wardrobe: Of Trousers and Cuffs

A practical side to trouser cuffs / turn-ups; if o...

2010-03-30T03:05:07.909-07:00

A practical side to trouser cuffs / turn-ups; if one intends to dance energetically, the extra weight helps prevent the ends of your trousers riding up.

This may not be of concern to most men, but as a swing dancer you realise their usefulness pretty quickly - especially on sufficiently light-weight trousers to not become swelteringly hot whilst dancing.
As a result, they've become fashionable enough on that scene for men and women to wear turn-ups on jeans, which is both hideous and unnecessary (and part of my objection to turn-ups in the first place).

Do you have a link or any more info on this? >> "...

2010-03-16T10:07:22.042-07:00

Do you have a link or any more info on this?

>> "Cloth shortages during that same war caused the U.S. government to ban pleats as well as trouser cuffs"

I'm very curious to learn more about that little bit of history. Thanks!

Wow! "Ask, and it shall be given you." Thank you ...

2010-03-13T20:59:06.975-08:00

Wow! "Ask, and it shall be given you."

Thank you for the informative and useful post.

At 5'7", I should probably go for somewhere between 1 1/2" and 1 3/4". Maybe 1 5/8"? I'll have to try some higher cuffs and see what I like.

Thanks again.

Will: Anthony Trollope in tweed trousers with tail...

2010-03-13T16:19:42.095-08:00

Will: Anthony Trollope in tweed trousers with tailcoat..haha!

http://www.jimandellen.org/trollope/AT40.jpg

I thought it was interesting that in the current B...

2010-03-13T13:38:12.745-08:00

I thought it was interesting that in the current Barneys spring catalog, a high percentage of the suits and odd trousers were both flat fronted and cuffed.

Now this is an interesting article. I would like m...

2010-03-13T05:46:15.021-08:00

Now this is an interesting article. I would like many more of articles of such information and depth. Thank you very much.

A very interesting discussion, but I am afraid tha...

2010-03-12T22:26:13.167-08:00

A very interesting discussion, but I am afraid that I
must at least partially disagree at least with the origin of pleated trousers. Just about a year ago the subject was addressed in the AAAC Forum. My contribution, as "comrade" pointed out that the actor Robert Taylor as Germonde was portrayed in the 1937 film "Camille" set in the 1830s-40s wearing pleated trousers. This was corrected by Alex di Pietropaolo, who noted that Taylor was not wearing true pleats.

http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/showthread.php?t=92341&highlight=robert+taylor

Pleated trousers look more elegant, IMO, though fl...

2010-03-12T16:34:42.996-08:00

Pleated trousers look more elegant, IMO, though flat-fronts look nicer on slim young men. Cuffs on almost everything except the more formal trousers.

"Turn-ups"

Will said... "Advice? Get a pair in Cheviot tweed...

2010-03-12T16:24:20.134-08:00

Will said...
"Advice? Get a pair in Cheviot tweed."

.....Will, thanks for the input but I don't want to look like Anthony Trollope so I've got to stick with a stripe....However, I've come to the conclusion that the heaviest worsted stripe that doesn't look out of sympathy with the coat and a not too tapered leg plus heavy tape is probably the solution.....and is that a 2" cuff over that rather nice boot?

Advice? Get a pair in Cheviot tweed. That was the ...

2010-03-12T15:06:54.275-08:00

Advice? Get a pair in Cheviot tweed. That was the original cloth used for morning trousers and it drapes nicely. Lovat Mill has a 500 gram black and cream check #578.

Pleats, in addition to giving a better drape to th...

2010-03-12T13:57:18.412-08:00

Pleats, in addition to giving a better drape to the pant, also accomodate the natural swell of the hips when you sit down. By definition they require a somewhat wider leg in the upper thigh which is why flat fronts are essential with today's fashionable slimmer cut pants. Personally, other than on evening or morning dress or jeans, I think cuffs are essential if you want a nice drape on your pants regardless of whether you have pleats or flat front.....dispensing with them is somewhat akin to wearing a DB suit with a single vent.....as to cuff dimensions the tailor who measured me for the first really good suit I ever had made in the environs of the Row was adamant that no guy should ever have pants with cuffs of less than
1 3/4"......Good advice imho.....as an aside to this getting pants on morning dress to drape properly is tough as they are invariably made of a fairly light cloth.....any suggestions Will?

Those Shannons predate the newer Edward Green last...

2010-03-12T11:26:16.889-08:00

Those Shannons predate the newer Edward Green lasts. They are on the 606.

The boots truly are wonderful.

2010-03-12T09:51:54.362-08:00

The boots truly are wonderful.

I don't own one pair of pleated trousers. Gave th...

2010-03-12T09:34:04.967-08:00

I don't own one pair of pleated trousers. Gave them away years ago. I just felt that the pleats did not always lay right and in some instances ballooned to much. I love plain front trousers and now put a 2 inch cuff on all slacks with 1.75-2 inch on suit trousers. I think the look is more sofisticated and classic.

I've always been unsure about pleats, cuffs and wh...

2010-03-12T09:09:22.103-08:00

I've always been unsure about pleats, cuffs and when they ought to be worn. Aside from the clear convention that cuffs are not worn with formal wear, I have come to the conclusion that both are essentially a matter of taste. Still, it's useful to have some suggestions for how they might best be worn.

On another note, those boots are rather wonderful, especially with the slightly country/casual look of cuffed trousers. Have you posted about them before? If not, I'd be interested in knowing where they come from.

Will, I figured out they are the Shannons. Coul...

2010-03-12T08:49:21.449-08:00

Will,

I figured out they are the Shannons. Could you share your last choice for this pair?

Regards,

Mccvi

At the least, cuffed plain front trousers have pre...

2010-03-12T08:47:57.981-08:00

At the least, cuffed plain front trousers have precedent on the legs of historical well-dressed men. I still see no practical reason to avoid them, and I think they add an interesting visual element and improve the lines of otherwise unremarkable pants.

Will, Please let us know who makes those boots yo...

2010-03-12T08:47:57.980-08:00

Will,

Please let us know who makes those boots you're wearing, they are superb.

Regards.

Mccvi

Great article. Nice to know that pleats actually h...

2010-03-12T07:53:21.712-08:00

Great article. Nice to know that pleats actually have a function; I never really knew what they were for. In general I think pleats give to "wide" of a look to the waist/hip area. At any rate, I don't know if the photograph in this post is of your clothes, but if not, do you know what kind of boots those are? They're excellent.

I love your blog and read it every chance I get. Keep it up.

All the best,

Phil
New York