Showing posts with label beazley's fine cloth. Show all posts
Showing posts with label beazley's fine cloth. Show all posts

Friday, August 10, 2007

Fall Cottons



Beazley's package of Holland & Sherry cottons arrived today. Clockwise, from the top:

  • Moss 9 oz 16 wale needlecord
  • Fawn 14 oz 11 wale cord
  • Navy 16 oz 7 wale cord
  • Rust (dark red, really) 14 oz moleskin

As soon as Martin Greenfield's shop re-opens after their Summer vacation, the cloth will be made into high waisted pleated trousers for Fall, with side adjustors and 1 3/4" cuffs. I hope to have them about the time the temperature is cool enough to wear them. They'll be paired with sweaters, tweed jackets, half boots and Norwegian lace-ups.

Thursday, November 30, 2006

Pants Across the Sea

We know that HRH Edward, the Duke of Windsor, had his trousers made in New York while his jackets were cut in London. He called it pants across the sea. I don't have a figure as trim as the Duke's but my solution also crosses the Atlantic.

Trousers cut to ride on the hips, the intended location of American ready to wear models, have a disturbing tendency to accentuate a pear shaped form. Fortunately, there are other styles of trousers. Note the long fall on the high waisted trousers of the man in the illustration, or look at photos of Fred Astaire wearing trousers with high waistbands in the book Fred Astaire Style by G. Bruce Boyer.

For me, those high waistbands are just the ticket. High waisted trousers fall straight down my front, creating an illusion of slimness that I hope is successful. Their height is also a better match for waistcoats and sweaters as there is no danger of a distracting glimpse of shirt above the trousers.

It's difficult if not impossible to find high waisted trousers ready to wear any longer, and this is where the across the sea part comes in. First, I order corduroy, moleskin, linen and other odd trouser fabric from a London merchant such as Beazley's Fine Cloth or John G. Hardy/J & J Minnis.
http://www.hollandandsherry.com/beazleys/
http://www.hfw-huddersfield.co.uk/hardyminnis/index.asp

About a week after ordering, the cloth arrives in San Francisco. Four times a year I pack it up and send it to Michelle at Martin Greenfield Clothers of Brooklyn, New York, asking for so many of this and so many of that. And then three months later I get a box of unfinished made to measure trousers that go in turn to a San Francisco alterations tailor for final adjustments and cuffs.

I'm looking forward to my next pair of high waisted trousers in 12 oz. charcoal whipcord. Only four months and ten thousand miles to go.