Sources: Cable Car Clothiers

I have to admit that I've been conflicted about Cable Car Clothiers for many years, and I've begun several essays about them only to delete them each time before publishing. That's because Cable Car arouses strong emotions in me, both positive and negative. On the one hand, it's got one of the more interesting merchandise offerings of any store in the United States. On the other, its pricing policies are actually pricing atrocities. Everything I've ever price checked there has been at least 30% higher than I could obtain it somewhere else without much trouble.

I mean, how can a retailer expect to sell much when its goods are priced higher than the identical articles on the manufacturers' web sites? Do they think potential customers don't look at the home pages for Kent brushes, George Trumper grooming products and James Lock hats? Even their Atkinson's Irish poplin neckties, which can't be purchased directly, are tagged at $125 each when The Andover Shop and other North American retailers sell the same items for $75!

On the other hand, I walked around the store the other day with a couple of friends and we were impressed with what may be the best selection of tweed suits and odd jackets West of the Appalachians as well as a variety of wool challis neckties like the ones in the photo. And I've been known to pop in there for a package of linen handkerchiefs when I didn't want to wait for UPS to bring them across the country.

So in the end I'm just conflicted. I'd like Cable Car to prosper, but I can't recommend buying anything there unless you are in town and you need it right now. One thing that's certain, if you're a man who loves classic clothing it should be the first place you visit in San Francisco.

Maintenance: The Wet Shave

There are two types of shaving - wet and dry - and of the two the wet shave is a bit closer as well as a more luxurious experience. I use an electric razor most of the time, but I like to indulge in a wet shave on Saturday afternoons when I'm dressing for the evening. Here's how.

The most important part of the wet shave is the preparation. Skin needs to be softened and the pores opened, which means it's best to either shave right after a hot shower, or to moisturize the face with a hot, wet face towel for thirty seconds or so.

Following moisturization, apply shaving soap that has been whipped to a lather with the largest badger hair brush you can afford (larger brushes hold more water). Shaving soap has fatty oils for lubrication and the brush lifts the beard and lightly exfoliates the skin. Applying cream or gel with the hands actually flattens the whiskers and makes shaving less effective.

It's important to shave in the direction that the whiskers grow. Before shaving, use the fingers to detect the direction of the grain. One direction will feel more resistance than others,and that direction is against the grain. Don't shave against the grain (that's the most common cause of razor burn, in-grown hairs and shaving rash). Around the chin and under the nose, move the blade sideways against the growth if necessary.

Use a quality razor and sharp blades for the work - the Gilette Mach III is a good choice. Warm the blade under hot water and then use smooth strokes to minimize skin irritation. An alum block will stop small cuts from bleeding. Rinse the razor after each stroke.

After shaving, rinse the face with cold water to close the pores. Gently pat it dry and then apply an alcohol-free balm or moisturizing gel. Rinse the brush and razor to remove soap and flick away any remaining water, and hang the brush on a brush stand so it can dry.

Men who use a fragrance after shaving should apply it behind the ears and at the base of the neck rather than irritate the newly exfoliated skin on the face.

When it comes to shaving products, the venerable English firm of George Trumper is my preference. I like the traditional looking handles they offer for the Mach III cartridges as well as their shaving soaps and related products. The pink labelled Extract of West Indian Limes collection includes shaving soap in a wooden tub (£16.50 or roughly $33) as well as skin food, a moisturing glycerin-based after shave balm (from £12.00 or roughly $24.00). It smells good, and the scent dissipates in half an hour so it won't conflict with a favorite cologne.

If you haven't experienced a classic wet shave, try it first at a reputable barber shop. Once you're hooked, ask a loved one for the gift of a badger shaving brush (brushes start at £36.00 , or roughly $72.00, but you're worth it). Any third party that strokes the result will be glad they did.