Sources: Cable Car Clothiers

I have to admit that I've been conflicted about Cable Car Clothiers for many years, and I've begun several essays about them only to delete them each time before publishing. That's because Cable Car arouses strong emotions in me, both positive and negative. On the one hand, it's got one of the more interesting merchandise offerings of any store in the United States. On the other, its pricing policies are actually pricing atrocities. Everything I've ever price checked there has been at least 30% higher than I could obtain it somewhere else without much trouble.

I mean, how can a retailer expect to sell much when its goods are priced higher than the identical articles on the manufacturers' web sites? Do they think potential customers don't look at the home pages for Kent brushes, George Trumper grooming products and James Lock hats? Even their Atkinson's Irish poplin neckties, which can't be purchased directly, are tagged at $125 each when The Andover Shop and other North American retailers sell the same items for $75!

On the other hand, I walked around the store the other day with a couple of friends and we were impressed with what may be the best selection of tweed suits and odd jackets West of the Appalachians as well as a variety of wool challis neckties like the ones in the photo. And I've been known to pop in there for a package of linen handkerchiefs when I didn't want to wait for UPS to bring them across the country.

So in the end I'm just conflicted. I'd like Cable Car to prosper, but I can't recommend buying anything there unless you are in town and you need it right now. One thing that's certain, if you're a man who loves classic clothing it should be the first place you visit in San Francisco.

Changing Hat Seasons

Some put the actual date at September 15, but for many, Labor Day in the United States is the end of straw hat season. I for one will be retiring my James Lock boater for the season after this coming weekend.

Straw hats in general, and boaters in particular, make an elegant statement on the golf course when worn with trousers (shorts don't have the necessary gravitas). Although, when introducing one into a baseball cap wearing foursome for the first time, there can be criticism. I found that a straw fedora (what used to be called a jippa jappa) can help ease the way if worn a few times before the boater. And it helps still more if the wearer has enough game to win the Nassaus for front, back and round from any parvenus who lack an appreciation of classic style.

Sources: James Lock & Co

Family owned for more than 300 years, hatters James Lock & Co were founded in London in 1676. One of the quintessentially English clothing purveyors, Lock is built into the culture - it exhibits, for example, at horse trials throughout the country.

I like Lock's cotton Monaco (pictured, £79.00) for sunny days on the golf course but the company's range is one of the more comprehensive in the world, from top hats to trilbys to velvet smoking caps with leather flying helmets and chauffeur's caps scattered along the way.

Lock complements its product range with a 'no quibble' money back guarantee. This means if a customer is not completely satisfied with a purchase for any reason, it can be returned in its original condition within 14 days of the purchase and Lock will refund the item's price. When returns are caused by an error on Lock's part or because a product is defective, the company refunds the shipping in both directions as well. I was happy with the guarantee after I ordered what was advertised as a linen cap and was sent a cotton one. Lock gave me a refund and then told me to keep their mistake rather than return it - making a customer for life.

With a new web site up and running this month, James Lock & Co appears ready for another 300 years.

Capping It Off

Walking in the sun and driving a car with the roof open call for headgear, and hopefully something other than a baseball cap. Yes, Esquire considers the baseball cap to be one of America's contributions to men's dress but author Paul Fussell would almost certainly describe that entire list as clothing for proles, including as it does such other contributions as sweat pants and the hoodie.

So what does that leave us? James Lock & Co., whose taste is as impeccable as anyone's, offers a variety of options, including the straw boater and the trilby. But I like the cap.

Caps perform all the functions of other casual headgear and offer an advantage that's unique to them. They are made from the same cloth that's used for suits and odd jackets, so you can get what you like.

English capmaker Lawrence & Foster will deliver the style that you like if you send them half a meter of any appropriate cloth, ranging from 14 ounce linen to 22 ounce tweed (they have no web site but their email is sales@lawrenceandfoster.co.uk). Delivery takes about a month and upon receipt you're ready to hit the golf course.