From Michael
"I'm visiting New York and wondering what fabric stores you would recommend for suitings. I'm looking to spend no more than $100 per yard."
Brooklyn's Tip Top Super Fine Fabrics buys end bolts from good houses and you can usually find suiting lengths of excellent goods less than $50 a yard. It's well worth the journey.
From John
"I enjoy quality clothes but do not always know how to find what I want. I recently saw a khaki/brown prince of wales sports jacket on someone and would like to purchase one. Ralph Lauren and Paul Stuart (my two favorites) do not have it this season nor do they have it in their swatch books. It seems like such a simple pattern (khaki and darker brown check) - where can I go to get one made?"
The principal challenge you face in getting your jacket is finding a fabric that's like the one you saw.
Minnis has this wonderful 13 ounce flannel glen check for Fall.
They have summer versions too. This one is an eight ounce cloth.
Whoever you choose to make the coat should also have fabrics for you to look at. I haven't used them but many New Yorkers seem to like Ercole in Brooklyn or Mr. Ned for mid-range tailoring.
From Rick
"I have my own law practice in the high tech area and have several clients in the Bay area that dress very casually. I, on the other hand, have always loved fine clothing.
I live in Colorado, so most of the folks I run into are wearing shorts, fleece, and Crocs. I could do that, and never look any different from the crowd. But that is just not who I am or who I represent. But it would look equally ridiculous for me to don a suit and tie every day that I sit in my office or when I travel to visit my clients. What would be an in-between look?"
Let me suggest that you could dress like a venture capitalist and your clients would be fine with that. That would mean "Friday" suits worn with a light sweater instead of a necktie and/or odd jackets with polos and dress trousers, like Luciano Barbera in the photo above. You can wear great shoes without raising any eyebrows.
Take a look around your local Oxxford or Zegna made to measure source. Zegna, for example, is reasonably priced, stylish, and the delivery time is under six weeks. Many Valley executives wear it.
Then acquire a couple pair of Vass, Edward Green, John Lobb or comparable shoes. And get some high quality mock turtlenecks to wear with your jackets. I'll bet you like the look.
"To be dressed too well is, perhaps, even worse than to be dressed shabbily. A first-class tailor will always make anonymous clothes for you. They will never be too fashionable, they will never follow the latest craze but their quality and cut will tell even after many years. Clothes should be obviously good but they must not scream: 'Look at me, how elegant I am!' The wearer's personality should always be stronger than his clothes, You should wear your clothes; never allow your clothes to wear you."
Everyone has their own opinion but I think Luciano Barbera is the best dressed man in the clothing business. That's probably because he's usually seen in the kinds of clothes that I would like to be wearing all the time - updated versions of the same kinds of tweeds, flannels and linens that the Duke of Windsor wore. Not worsteds and discreet ties for the office, but Saxony glen checked suits with cashmere four in hands and paisley silk pocket squares.
Son of Carlo Barbera, proprietor of one of the world's best mills weaving wool and cashmere fabrics, Luciano is responsible for an eponymous line of ready to wear clothing as well as a unique sense of personal style. There's a statement on the Luciano Barbera web site that sums his approach up fairly well: "On the gravest days of winter I put on my gray flannels, a cashmere tie in a sober color and my white linen jacket. The pants keep me warm. The tie gains me entrée into good restaurants. The blazer reminds me that summer will come again."
