Outgrowing Your Clothes

Young men should replace clothes before they outgrow them. Wait too long and they end up looking like the gentleman in the photo from Men's Style, who is wearing a suit that's apparently been in his wardrobe since before he left for college.

He has a good color sense though, doesn't he?

iPoding

Has anyone else noticed a seismic change in how young people communicate? Apple's iPod appears to be consolidating several trends that had been gathering strength separately.

First, cost-conscious employers have been filling empty spaces with desks and chairs instead of cubicles, and workers in the open are less inclined to make noise that might disturb thirty of their neighbors.

Second, portable music players are ubiquitous. New graduates at work in Silicon Valley appear to listen to music at all times.

Third, those same new graduates grew up with text messaging.

So, the unforseen (by me anyway) consequence is that people are communicating with co-workers a few feet away by texting them. Instead of talking. Person 1 sends a text message to person 2 at the next desk while both of them listen to music.


Clothing manufacturers have not missed the iPod phenomenon. Under its "Made for iPod" initiative, Apple encourages companies to develop complementary products. The first generation of these was focused on controlling the iPod by building controls into clothing (that's Zegna's iJacket in the photo). If they can add text messaging to it I'll take one in tweed and one in linen.

Snoop Dogg Styled

American rapper Snoop Dogg and a gorgeous companion were the cover subjects of L’UOMO Vogue this past December, and looking relatively unrapper-like in two of the photos.


Thereby demonstrating that a borzoi and a walking stick go a long way towards improving the style of a would-be boulevardier.

Fashion: Thom Browne Doppelgängers?

I regret that the attribution I gave to the above photo is incorrect. The photo is actually of Kris Van Assche's collection for Dior Homme and came from the Men's Style website. I got it from a third party. Thank you to the reader who pointed out the error.

Karl Lagerfeld, one of the most influential designers of the twentieth century, is known for absorbing culture around the clock so he can stay ahead of trends. Here, Chanel's artistic director shows that the process may have included channeling Thom Browne.

Of course, the trousers aren't really doppelgängers (a German term for one's evil twin) of Browne's work, because at least one of the models wearing them is reflected in the mirror (in folklore, doppelgängers have no reflections and cast no shadows). And the look is definitely more European than I've seen from Browne. But I'd still get a shiver down my spine if I were to pass these trousers on the street.

Quotation: Really?

"Japan doesn't have any competition in fashion at the moment - it's doing something so different, the way it did with hi-fi. This is fashion thoroughly informed by traditional aesthetics: aji, which might involve fabrics where the incongruity speaks of the congruity of the whole; the idea of sleeves filled with nothing; the idea of colored space, as in the Edo Kabuki."

-Donald Richie quoted in Scenes from the Fashionable World, by Kennedy Frasier

Book Review: ABC of Men's Fashion

The English designer Hardy Amies, who passed away in 2003, was so far as I know the first important menswear designer. His book, ABC of Men's Fashion, was originally published in 1964, just as top down men's fashion was to disappear for twenty years in favor of street fashions.

Re-issued this month, ABC should be of interest to any man that appreciates classic dressing. Organized as a series of alphabetized definitions, it's a combination of forecasts that didn't happen - Amies believed that the next step for men would be high closing four button jackets and that boots would replace shoes - and useful thoughts on color, contrast, late day dress and other things you may not have thought about before.

For example, Amies points out that a 13 ounce mohair makes a great travel suit for all but the hottest destinations as it doesn't wrinkle and holds a crease as if it was made of metal. To that he adds that being relaxed on holiday should not mean that we walk around other people's cities dressed as if we were at a sea side resort. "Correct dressing is only another form of good manners, and good manners are only another form of mental comfort."

Amen.

A Visit to Borrelli in San Francisco

Four clothing geeks visited San Francisco's Borrelli store last week after lunch. As we entered the store I heard each of my companions greeted by their first name - and that was a first in my experience, particularly surprising since one of them was from Los Angeles.

The friendliness of the staff was complemented by the seasonal look of the merchandise. Pastel shirts, jackets and trousers were all around us.

Borrelli is relatively new to San Francisco but the staff has been around the City's clothing scene for years (that's probably why they knew everyone by name). Sales Manager Horace Mack joined the store from Nieman Marcus. He explained that odd jackets and made to measure shirts are central to the store's business, which makes sense to me. A lot of suits are sold by San Francisco retailers but you'd be hard pressed to find a lot of men wearing them.

I particularly liked the light gray suit in the photo above, though I couldn't wear it. The design was perfect for a thirty something man to wear without a necktie on the weekend. It's a very light summer weight plain weave worsted with patch pockets and a $2,000 price tag. The jacket is quarter lined and constructed like a shirt, with just a bit of fusing in the front for structure instead of canvas. The middle two sleeve button holes are cut through, but the other two are closed so they can be relocated if the sleeves need altering. The trousers are low rise, with belt loops.

To my surprise, none of my companions bought anything before we went back out into the sunshine.

A New Straw for the Season

Kelly Christy is a milliner based in New York City. She began offering women's hats in 1996 and has since added a ready to wear line of hats for men that can be found at New York retailers such as Barney’s, Seize Sur Vingt, and Stackhouse. But for me her appeal is that she also makes custom hats.

I met Kelly last month at the Collection of Sartorial Excellence in New York where she was showing ready to wear examples of what she can do. One of her straws caught my eye - a short brimmed pork pie hat with a black edge that was a bit too much for me. But we talked, and she showed me how she could give me an edge that blended in. I was hooked.

Working with Kelly is similar to working with a bespoke tailor - she can make just about anything but has a definite house style that influences the finished product. In her case, the house style is what I'd describe as hipster. Her top hat and bowler models, for example, pay homage to the past but are definitely not part of it. By dialing her style all the way back the result is something that a London hatmaker might not make but shouldn't have nightmares over either. I like it.

For an appointment with Kelly, contact her at 212 965-0686 or drop by her studio at 453 Broome Street Tuesday through Friday from 12 to 6 or on Saturdays from 12 to 5.

Fashion in LA

Not knowing what to expect, I registered to cover the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in Los Angeles this week. The LA version apparently doesn't get the well-known names that the New York show attracts in the Fall and that means the PR people have to work a lot harder. So far I've received attractive email invitations to the premier of not one but two lines of multi-cultural clothing printed with messages of unity, a rock concert for a maker of torn tee shirts and ripped jeans and an exciting new line of sexy men's underwear. 1% of all proceeds seem to be going to one charity or another. And there are more than a dozen brunches and runway shows for undescribed things I haven't heard of and can't Google because the sponsors don't seem to have web sites. I've never understood how companies can stay in business when they don't tell people what they do.

Anyway, if I don't include the sexy underwear there's apparently no classic men's clothing on display at Fashion Week and the best dressed men on site will apparently look something like the guy in the photo to the left. That's not for me. Though one invitation almost got me to the airport despite all, and that was to the TART Fall 2007 Runway Show - The Vamp, The Vixen and La Femme Nikita. I've always been a sucker for a woman with an automatic weapon and I know an editor at a gun magazine that might be interested in joining me.

But in the end I decided to hold out for the Milan show next January. You may want to enjoy the party as well, all expenses paid. DETAILS magazine is running a drawing with a grand prize that includes a 3-day, 3-night getaway for two to Milan with round-trip airfare, accommodation, and tickets to Dolce & Gabbana's fashion show, including a trip backstage to meet the designers.

After the fashion, we can go over to Caraceni and take in some style.

Sources: KJ Beckett

The city of Bath is one of England's most elegant places to visit. Set in the Somerset countryside about 100 miles west of London, the World Heritage city sits on the only naturally occuring hot spring in the United Kingdom. Its springs, Roman baths, medieval Abbey and Georgian architecture have attracted visitors for centuries.

A few miles outside of the city proper is the home office of Internet haberdasher KJ Beckett. Here, the three Beckett brothers have brought the 21st century to the area, assembling a selection of contemporary accessories made for the store as well as selected items from modern English designers such as Robert Charles and Simon Carter. I found the site because of its outstanding knit tie collection. There's a large assortment of other neckties, wool scarves and dozens of brightly colored and patterned socks for casual wear.

Beckett maintains inventory of the offered items and generally any order received by noon is shipped the same day. Most UK customers receive their orders by Royal Mail in 2 to 3 days. US and ECC customers usually receive their orders within a week. The company stands behind its offerings with a liberal return policy.

Reserve the Date

Reserve March 2 and 3, 2007 for the Third Annual "A Collection of Sartorial Excellence." at the Regency Hotel in New York. It's an opportunity to spend time with outstanding bespoke artisans from North America and Europe.

In addition to good conversation, the Collection offers attendees the opportunity to be fitted for men's tailored clothing, shoes, shirts and accessories.

A Suitable Wardrobe will be published from the Regency each day, accompanied by photographs of the work on exhibit.

Space is limited and preference will be given to existing clients of the artisans and members of Ask Andy About Clothes. Click to request an invitation.

The Club Collar

I like club collars on shirts. Also known as the Eton or golf collar, the former because a large version of it was worn as part of the Eton school uniform and the latter because Brooks Brothers designated it that when Brooks still had influence on what things were called in the United States, the club collar isn't seen much today. That's probably because there's only so many different styles of ready to wear shirts that can be inventoried by a rational retailer. Fortunately, they are available from most shirtmakers, with the conspicuous exception of Turnbull & Asser.

I learned that when I bespoke one from T&A some years ago. My first clue should have been when they didn't have a collar template to show me, and I had to sketch what I wanted. So I half expected that what I got would be something other than what I ordered (to their credit, they were kind enough to replace the unfortunate result with something they knew how to make). That failure causes me to believe that the club is worn more on the American side of the Atlantic, to the extent it is worn at all.

The club can be worn pinned or unpinned, like the gentleman in the drawing to the left. Unstarched, it's better with odd jackets and less formal suits in flannel and tweed than it is with worsteds. And like the ticket pocket or lapels on a vest, it says that you pay attention to your clothes without being obvious about it. That's a good thing.

Bring Back the Vest

Central heating has just about killed the vest, which is a shame. I don't know if anyone has calculated the environmental impact but it strikes me that we'd all be better off if we turned down our thermostats and wore vests and sweaters to keep warm. There's no question in my mind but that we'd look better.

You feel the value of a vest whenever you're walking outdoors on one of those cool days that are too sunny for an overcoat. Jacket and trousers by themselves leave the chest vulnerable, with only a thin layer of cotton shirting for temperature control. And I value a vest's pockets for carrying cigars, cutter and lighter when I plan to sit in the park and smoke.

It's important to note that there's no requirement that your vest, on the days that you wear one, matches the rest of your suit. Cream, buff, and dove gray linen odd vests don't stand out from their accompanying worsted. They add a discreet layer of interest to an otherwise ordinary charcoal or navy suit. I like mine with lapels, like the fellow in the drawing to the left.

In a time when ready to wear suit makers are selling summer weight fabrics all year round because they're less expensive, it's time to strike a blow for elegance and the environment. Bring back the vest!

Consider the Black Suit

Consider the black suit. By this, I do not mean the Men's Warehouse "Since you'll only have one suit it should be black so you can wear it to a funeral" suit. Nor do I recommend the City of London black worsted with white pinstripes. But a black suit (similar in style to but hopefully better made than the three button version from Brooks Brothers to the left) has a place in your wardrobe if you're young, urban and plan to spend some of your nights clubbing in less formal places like LA or South Beach.

Know that a black suit worn during the day has been controversial and ideally to be avoided since the lounge/business suit replaced earlier forms of day wear. Charcoal and navy blue are preferred. The place for black is at night.

Night is when people go to urban clubs to see and be seen. And while a man in traditional dinner kit would look out of place, Hollywood has given us an alternative in the black or midnight blue suit, stripped of most of its frills and worn in place of black tie for evening.

Stripped means that the jacket and trousers should not have the silk trimmings of a dinner jacket and trousers. The jacket should preferably be one button with a peak lapel, but could be two or three button and notch lapel. Preferably without flaps on the side pockets and either no side vents or two of them. A sheen of mohair in the cloth adds to the evening look, as do cloth covered buttons.

Wear it with highly polished plain black oxfords and a silver silk tee shirt or polo in summer or a cashmere mock turtleneck in winter. A pocket square shows savoir faire. If you can't stand the thought of going out without a necktie, wear a plain white dress shirt with french cuffs and a Macclesfield or satin four-in-hand necktie. Avoid Clooney style, with an open neck. It just looks sloppy having your collar flapping around and all.

I'd rather you wore something else during the day, but if you can't get home to change for the evening, a black suit can work for you from morning to night. Bring some cologne and a night-time top or shirt and necktie in your briefcase so you can transform yourself quickly at the office. It's not cool to wear exactly the same clothes that you wore all day.

Once the sun sets the black suit is in its element.

Sources: luxury-scarves.com

Based in Zurich, Switzerland, Luxury GMBH hosts a unique web site specializing in authentic Hermes scarves.

Hermes began making silk scarves in 1937, when the company was 100 years old. It has since printed more than 1,000 designs. Worn folded in the breast pocket of a jacket, the 16" pochette version of the Hermes scarf makes a statement that some men swear by and others swear at.

The key to the Luxury site is its selection. Where the Hermes company site may have six pochettes from which to choose, Luxury has twenty. They range from current designs to the occasional gem from fifty years ago, at prices starting somewhat below Hermes list for a current item and increasing to considerably more for an older model in pristine condition.

The site does not accept credit cards directly but does accept PayPal payments, money orders and wire transfers. Shipping is by registered priority air mail and the cost is included in the price of the item. All sales are final unless an item is not as described.

Sources: James & Longbourne

London's James & Longbourne specialize in dress shirts and accessories. Now the world hardly needed another ready to wear dress shirt provider but James & Longbourne have done it with a twist. There is a nice assortment of silk knots as well as sterling, brass and printed plastic collar stays (called "stiffeners" by the company). They also offer wallet cards containing twist out replacement stays for travel emergencies.

I love the printed stays. The eight standard designs include seasonal, English (like the pictured St. George stays) and even erotic images. Or, you can bespeak your stays with a design of your choosing.

The company appears to understand how to do business on the web. They have a competent online ordering system and you can see your order status on the web site. Not that there is much to see - my collar stays were shipped the day after I placed the order.

If you are not satisfied with your purchase, James & Longbourne has what they call a no quibble returns policy. You can return standard items within 28 days for a prompt replacement or a full refund.

The New Yorker

I doubt if The New Yorker has ever considered itself a consumer finance magazine but the 1998 publication of a piece titled My Father's Closet in that magazine arguably saved me more money than anything else I've read over the years.

The author was John Seabrook, whose father was anointed one of America's best dressed in Esquire's first list, published around 1960. He wrote that his father's city clothes were made in New York and London, but his country clothes were made in Hong Kong.

At the time of publication I had been a Turnbull & Asser bespoke shirt customer for some years and had no complaints about the shirts. I did develop a serious complaint about the valuation of the U.S. dollar which was on its way to a 50% decline in value against the English pound. Then a light went on in my head.

This light eventually led me to the hotel suite of Joe Hemrajani, a principal of Hong Kong tailors MyTailor.com. http://www.mytailor.com/

Joe proceeded to copy the measurements of one of my bespoke shirts and promised to copy the construction in return for an extra charge that seemed more than reasonable to me. He didn't have T&A's selection of Sea Island cotton cloth in varied stripes and checks but his Thomas Mason fabrics more than covered the basics I was looking for.

My first order was for a variety of semi-solid fabrics including a light gray twill, tan nailhead and a navy on blue glen check. No pocket, of course. And each with my initials monogrammed in maroon inside the collar where the label is located on a ready to wear shirt.

Two months later my sample shirt arrived. As did, some weeks later, the balance of my first order. For 35% of what I'd have spent on Jermyn Street.

Dozens of shirts later, I religiously renew my subscription to The New Yorker. You never know when it might save you some serious money.

A Plea for Striped Socks

Whenever I've noticed socks in a particularly stylish Apparel Arts drawing, they've tended to be versions with horizontal stripes, worn with suits. And since I first noticed them, I've been searching for over the calf versions with little success. You'd think someone would recognize opportunity knocking.

Granted, Edward Green's London store had several colorways about five years ago but they've stopped offering them. Mine are worn out. And since, whenever I've heard of some they've turned out to be sport socks. Or atrocities.

I've come across several sources for interesting socks along the way.

A source for polka dots in a cotton sport version is Buffalo's O'Connell's Clothing. You can view the merchandise but need to call to place an order.

Another is the Kabbaz Kelly online haberdashery. In addition to being the leading source for Pantherella hose on the planet, Kabbaz offers some wonderful wool OTC Marcolianis in a variety of restrained and not so restrained polka dots.

But stripes are nowhere to be found.