Father's Day is Coming Up

Father's Day is just around the corner in the United States and U.K., and it used to be a difficult day for me. That was when I used to break my own rule and let the women in my life shop for me if they chose. It just seemed mean spirited to stop them, even though all clothing gifts were automatically recycled to Goodwill with the tags still on.

That was because, much as I love women, most of them can barely clothe themselves and, despite their sex's genetic assumption that they are shopping goddesses, they know nothing about clothing for men. Naturally, this point of view caused a certain amount of friction over the years.

I'm pleased that after several false starts I've arrived at a reasonable compromise. It wasn't even that hard once I got the idea, which is kind of a guy's version of a bridal register. I pick a menswear catalog with a selection of things that I like, such as the pictured Arnys Forestiere jacket at Maus & Hoffman (I should be so lucky). I mark ten or twelve acceptable or desireable items at various price points and give the catalog to any interested woman. She can get me any of the marked items knowing I'll be somewhat surprised and truly greatful (this is quite a change - for years I would behave badly to any woman that bought me clothing as a matter of principle). Of course, the same approach can be taken with sports gear, alcohols, and other good stuff.

Now if you've got one of those rare ladies who knows instinctively that the best gift she can get you is a bottle of single malt or two seats behind the first base dugout, you don't need my help. But if there is still stress in this part of your relationship, try giving them a catalog. If you're in the same boat I was, things can hardly get any worse.

Sources: Maus & Hoffman

A five store Florida chain that specializes in "classic sportswear," Maus & Hoffman also operates a useful web site offering good quality lines from makers such as Brioni and Oxxford. I am particularly fond of the company's Lemmermayer Links Alpaca Cardigan sweater.

The selection of online merchandise at first appears limited, however, much like Paul Stuart's set-up, customers can use an online form to order items from the M&H catalogs. A pdf version of the latest catalog is on the home page with an interesting selection of expensive but unique polos and other light-weight clothing for summer and resort wear. It's also worthwhile to periodically visit the Clearance section where quality Scottish cashmere items are currently 25% off.

The M&H terms of sale are more than fair. There is a thirty day exchange or refund policy for any item returned in good condition.

Sources: Paul Stuart

Paul Stuart is one of America's very best clothing store chains. For many years slightly more adventuresome than Brooks Brothers, Paul Stuart's New York store (there are also two in stores Tokyo and individual ones in Chicago, Kobe and Seoul) was described by Alan Flusser as the place where a man went for an interesting necktie after buying his sack suit at 43rd and Madison.

Unlike its neighbor, Paul Stuart has remained true to itself over the years and the web store's merchandise reflects the company's updated traditional approach. There's a selection of interesting neckties, an assortment of fairly refined pocket squares like the pictured yellow cotton Fleur De Lis iteration and some fine socks, including summer argyles in the best colorways I've seen anywhere. Most if not all of the merchandise is unique to the store.

Unique in my internet shopping experience, Paul Stuart's catalogs are online in addition to the featured collection of "Essentials." It isn't immediately obvious but customers can shop from both selections of merchandise, subject to availability of the catalog items.

The company has a very good return policy, offering credit or an exchange for any unused item that doesn not meet the buyer's expectations. When a return is due to a Paul Stuart error or merchandise quality, they pay the shipping costs.

The Necktie Wardrobe, Part 2

Yesterday's essay discussed solid colored neckties and today's will consider patterned versions.

We'll start with stripes. A man probably needs at least four two-color striped neckties, and at least one of those ought to be Irish poplin for its sheen. Block stripes (above, from Ben Silver) and ribbon stripes (as shown below, from O'Connell's) are flexible styles that coordinate easily with patterned suits and shirts. Navy and gold, navy and pacific blue, navy and red, and red and gold are classic color combinations.

For serious occasions, there should be two Macclesfield ties. Mini-dots are discreet and fairly easy to find. White or silver dots on black and the same on wine are useful combinations.

There should also be a couple small checks, either shepherd's or houndstooth in navy on cream and gray on cream like the one below, from Brooks Brothers, as well as a paisley or two (get the paisleys in gummed silk if you can find them but I haven't seen one for about ten years) in a large print.

Next, there should be a couple of non-directional foulards or club ties, one of which should have a ground that complements navy suits. The other should pair well with gray suits. Sportsmen may choose prints featuring ducks or Labrador retrievers but most men will be better served by heraldic symbols, like the pictured tie from Henry Poole, or small flowers, like the tie at the bottom from O'Connell's.

Finally, most men should have four seasonal ties, two linen (or silk and linen) with tan and blue grounds for summer and a gray and a blue ground cashmere or wool challis for cooler weather. The patterns should be similar to the styles discussed above. These ties are to provide some different textures with which to vary your look.

So that's it, a dozen neckties that, combined with the dozen solids and semi-solids from yesterday, comprise a fine basic wardrobe for a well-dressed man.

The Necktie Wardrobe, Part 1

A suit-wearing man needs a minimum of about two dozen neckties. About a dozen of those should be solids and semi-solids with textures that add surface interest. Solids make the most flexible neckties because their relative inobtrusiveness makes them amenable to frequent wearing, and they make it easy to complement a pattern in a suit, shirt, or both.

Knitted silk neckties, like the ones shown above from Paul Stuart, are a wardrobe staple in warm weather, and on less formal occasions (their square bottoms make them more casual). Black, navy and dark red are the most useful colors.

Grenadines, which are also knitted silk but in a tighter weave, are more formal than knits. Pictured above, and also from Paul Stuart, they may be worn where-ever a man might wear a lounge suit. Consider black, navy, burgundy and silver.

A few more solids should round out the collection. A man can never have too many navy neckties and an oxford weave solid (shown above in Pacific blue, another useful color, from Ben Silver) should be one of them.

Finally, there should be a couple ribbed solids in steel blue and in charcoal with a blue tint, either ottomans (the latter have a more visible stripe, as pictured above, from Paul Stuart) or twill (below, from Ben Silver).

Tomorrow we'll look at a selection of patterned ties.