Wardrobe Basics

What does a man need when his wardrobe lacks everything? Not much, but it should all work together to form a foundation for anything life may bring you in the future. And the same basics are useful at any age.

Start with basic gear in ordinary colors that can be worn often without it being too obvious that the same clothes get a lot of use. Splurge on a few accent pieces that will add personality. Make them tasteful but infrequently seen accents, like a paisley pocket square, and eschew loud neckties.

For outerwear, the basics include a single breasted raincoat in tan with a zip-in lining and, if the climate calls for one, a three quarter length winter coat like the pictured navy duffel coat from Gloverall.

They may not be worn every day but don't ignore odd jackets as they are the intermediate step between casual and dressy during the day. Summer is served with a linen odd jacket and for cool weather think in terms of a single-breasted navy blazer. If another is required, the next should be a tweed. Any of these may be paired with chinos and cords and dress trousers acquired later but a pair of tropical weight and a pair of gray flannels make a good beginning. The jackets should be hanging next to a dark gray and a navy suit in mid-weight cloth for year-round wear because a man has to begin building his professional wardrobe before he needs it every day.

Button down Oxford cloth shirts can serve for both dress and casual occasions (preps may layer them with colored polos). Two white, three blue and a pastel like yellow or pink make a reasonable starting set. Add a straight collar version or two in broadcloth and consider investing in a gold collar pin to wear to your friends' weddings.

Other basics include a fistfull of neckties, several khaki and corduroy trousers, and navy and white polos. Basic shoes might include a pair of black oxfords, suede ankle boots with crepe soles, brown penny loafers, and a pair of boat shoes or sneakers (remember, shoes shouldn't be worn two days in a row so invest in more than one pair as well as shoe trees). For cooler weather, add a crewneck sweater.

Each man should tweak these suggestions to suit how he expects to live his life. The objective of any wardrobe is to provide what's needed for appropriate dress on any reasonably forseeable occasion, and a few wardrobe basics will accomplish just that.

A Closet Full of Coats

A man needs a coat, or several of them, for the rain and the snow.

Every wardrobe has to start somewhere. If you have one coat it should be a tan raincoat with a zip-in lining that will help keep you warm when the temperature falls below freezing.

Your second coat should be designed to get you to and from your work in cold weather, like the navy guard's coat in the drawing. Less useful than a raincoat in the rain, an overcoat can literally keep you from freezing on very cold days.

Variety being the spice of life, larger wardrobes have five or more coats for different purposes. In addition to the raincoat and an overcoat, you could constructively add a topcoat, like the covert coat pictured in the center of the drawing, for milder days.

A more formal overcoat, such as a charcoal Chesterfield with a black velvet collar, will be more appropriate than a conventional coat at solemn occasions and in the evening.

Finally, a tweed coat with raglan sleeves will look fitting worn over tweed suits and odd jackets.

We differentiate between overcoats and topcoats because a topcoat is four to six inches shorter than an overcoat and less cumbersome on a train or in an automobile. It's also lighter.

Coat fabrics come in several different weights. Very heavy overcoat fabrics, suitable for a Moscow winter, weigh as much as 30 ounces and are increasingly difficult to find today. Normal overcoat fabric runs 20-22 ounces, and topcoat cloth 17-18 ounces. In warmer climates such as Naples or San Francisco, topcoats may be made from suiting fabric weighing as little as 13 ounces.

The classic colors for overcoats and topcoats are the usual navy, charcoal and tan. For variety, you should acquire one of each color before considering a second or third in a similar color. For example, your closet might contain:

• Tan raincoat
• Charcoal Chesterfield
• Navy guard's coat
• Fawn covert coat
• Brown and cream houndstooth tweed

If you prefer other choices, such as a camel polo coat instead of the navy guard's coat, you can maintain color choices in your closet by substituting, for example, a black and white herringbone topcoat for the covert.

If you've earned an indulgence this winter, remember that coats may be the best opportunities to employ luxury cloth in your wardrobe. Cold weather is significantly less uncomfortable when you're wrapped up in a cashmere overcoat.