Reader Questions

From Alex
My fiance and I have been arguing over the clothes for our wedding party for sometime now. I would prefer to wear matching suits and ties. Is it appropriate for the groom and his groomsman to wear suits instead of tuxedos?

Suits would be much better than tuxedos for a daytime wedding, when a dinner jacket would be incorrect (the proper formal clothes would be morning coats or strollers like the ones in the illustration). Dinner jackets would be a bit better than suits in the evening (as long as they are not pastel colored anyway) but it's your wedding. You'd look fine in navy suits.

From Darin

I've seen patch and flap pockets mentioned occasionally on the boards, but not all that often, and a couple of posters have opined privately that they don't like them. Do you?

They are a styling choice like any other, though I would not put flaps on summer jackets.

I have them on tweed suits. Brooks Brothers used to put them on its gabardines, and I had one of those.The disadvantage of patch pockets is that they are smaller and they bulge more. The advantage is that they do not require as much lining, and that's a good thing for a summer jacket.

Reader Questions

From Franklin
Recently some of your essays have shown spectator shoes. Can you recommend a source for an affordable version?

The problem with inexpensive specs is that they tend to be made entirely of leather rather than the originals' leather and suede or canvas. The all leather look leaves a bit to be desired and, in my opinion, you should save your money until you can afford a mid-range spectator from a company like Crockett & Jones.

From Simon
I am about to get my first made to order shirt (either a key largo blue stripe with Windsor collar or a blue herringbone with white Windsor collar and white cuffs). As I will only wear this shirt with a suit or when I wear a tie, the question is regarding cuffs with links or buttons. I feel that buttons on a nice well cut shirt could look cheap. But I dislike a French cuff or oversized cuffs. What would you advise?

If you respect tradition, contrast collar shirts should always have turnback cuffs. I prefer that the cuffs are also white but that's optional.

Button cuffs are fine for everyday wear otherwise. No-one will think your shirt looks cheap because they see a button on your sleeve.

If you do get buttons, I recommend two of them on the cuff parallel to your arm. They hold the cuff a bit straighter and the look, in my opinion, is a bit more finished.

Reader Questions

From Jeffrey
Both Anton and Flusser write that odd jackets and trousers cut short guys in half. I am 5' 7" and assume that in addition to the contrast in materials and colors, the busy details and patterns of odd jackets would harm my look. Does this mean I should never wear odd jackets?

Look at the photo of David Niven (the same shot that appeared in Flusser's most recent book). He's able to wear that odd jacket successfully because there's not as much contrast between jacket and trousers as the writers you mention usually recommend. Niven of course was fairly thin. A heavier man of moderate height might want to stay away from large checks on his jackets and choose something like a tan solid instead.

You should also consider casual suits instead of odd jackets to help accentuate the vertical. For example, a cotton poplin or a seersucker suit can can go to the same functions as a blazer and the vertical lines of the seersucker in particular will give you a taller look.

Reader Questions

From Jason

Most of the people in my office wear the typical worsted or gabardine trousers but I like the texture and look of flannels. Are they versatile enough to wear year round as a primary odd trouser (save for the warmest of days)?

Pretty much - I wear flannel in the fall almost exclusively. I find the mottled weave more interesting than most worsteds. Of course there are minor negatives. You may need a couple extra pair, as flannel should be rested two days after a wearing rather than just one, and they don't wear as well but in my opinion those defects are more than offset by the superior looks of a great flannel.

In spring, flannel trousers are progressively less desireable as the weather warms up. I have a pair in light (for flannel) ten ounce wool and they are not for temperatures much above 70 degrees (f) in my opinion.

From Ben
I am entering into the business world and inherited some of my father's beautiful Oxxford clothing that fits me perfectly. However, all of the pants are pleated and it seems like that style has been phased out. Can I still wear them?

If you hang around here long enough you'll get tired of hearing that there is a difference between fashion and style. Fashion is for the fair sex, and shouldn't affect you unless you're dressing to go clubbing.

Savile Row still overwhelmingly prefers the pleated trouser, and for good reason. Pleats are more attractive on more men than flat fronts. Wear yours in good health.

Reader Questions

From Alon
As a student, there is little of your good taste that I can put into practice on a daily basis. I need hardly tell you that a full dress suit would be out of place on campus, particularly in the very poorly attired faculty of music. Is there any advice you can give to a younger audience on looking trimmed and elegant but not so out of place so as to be denounced as a "bourgeois pig" by one's peers? Oh, and if it takes into account a student budget, that, too, would be greatly appreciated!

Is Charlie Watts bourgeois? He dresses well enough to be in the Best Dressed Hall of Fame. And many other musicians dress well today across the spectrum from classical to pop. Music provides an environment where a man can wear great clothing without worrying about keeping everything muted so as not to offend.

Musicians or not, my advice to young men is to buy neutrals first so you can wear them frequently while your wardrobe is limited. Invest in one or two signature pieces, such as a great scarf, for when you want to add brio. And don't be afraid of vintage clothing.

Reader Questions

From Ken
In a comment some time ago, you noted there were a half dozen excellent bespoke tailors in the United States, but you only named Chris Despos in Chicago. Since that time, I have often wondered who the other five are. Please name them.

There are hundreds of tailors in the U.S. that will make a suit. Only a handful can make one to the best standards. Off the top of my head, in addition to Despos there's Jack Taylor in Beverly Hills and Cheo, Nino Corvato, Leonard Logsdail, Vincent Nicolosi, and William Fioravanti in Manhattan. I'm sure I'm overlooking a couple.

Image courtesy of Ermenegildo Zegna.

Reader Questions

From Michael
What is a 3 roll 2 jacket?

That's shorthand for a three button jacket with lapels that roll to the middle button. That's why you can see the (unusable) top buttonhole on the reverse side of the lapel, like the jackets on the suit and stroller wearing men in the illustration.

On a 3 roll 2.5, the buttonhole is hidden by the lapel roll. It's also never buttoned. Primarily an American look, I like it for odd jackets and less formal suits.

On a 3 roll top, the lapel is short as the top button can be closed. This is the classic vested suit.


From Andrew
As we both know, suit styles change. When buying a new suit, how long
should I expect to own it before it goes out of style?

If you are buying classic suits and not fashion items they can last indefinitely with care and reasonable wearing. I wear one or two suits that are more than a decade old every week.

I'll estimate that 400 wearings is a reasonable age for a high quality suit that's dry cleaned infrequently. So, perhaps eight or more years if a suit is worn 40-50 times a year, as it would be in a six to ten suit wardrobe where a suit is worn daily. In a thirty suit wardrobe a suit will probably outlast the wearer, as it also will when it's only worn for special occasions.

Reader Questions

From Bill
What is your opinion on the most traditional type of vest to have made as part of a conservative 3 piece suit? Previously, I have only had the standard single breasted 6 button vest. However, I have seen recent pictures and commentary on double breasted and vests with lapels.

Every style is rooted in tradition and what's correct depends on the type of suit. For country inspired clothes, like the glen check in the photo, lapels are a traditional vest detail. In the city, the single breasted vest without lapels is the least likely to draw attention on a pinstripe. And the double breasted vest increases the formality of a suit compared to the usual single breasted style. Try one with a solid charcoal or navy blue suiting.

From TJ
As one of your readers who is in 'phase two' of his wardrobe I'd be interested in your opinions, the history of, and options for the following:

-Jacket Vents (one, two, none)
-Pant Cuffs (to cuff or not to cuff)

Briefly, single vented jackets came from riding coats. They don't look very good when a man puts his hands in his pockets, which is why I and most men that follow classic style prefer the double vent. Ventless jackets were the traditional option for formal wear but have the same unattractive-backside-bulge-when-hand-is-in-pocket problem as does a single vented coat. Go ventless only if you keep your hands in sight at all times.

Trousers at the turn of the 20th century were flat fronted and cuffless. Pleats were introduced during the twenties and continue to be the sign of good tailoring IMO. Pleats should be accompanied by cuffs except on formal trousers, which are always uncuffed.

The flat front came back after WWII for uniform trousers and working clothes, and the Italians brought it to dress trousers. Flat fronts are OK for younger men with washboard stomachs but should never be accompanied by cuffs unless the wearer doesn't care about history.

Reader Questions

From Benedict
"The overcoat I inherited from my father, a full-length grey single-breasted, has finally collapsed under the weight of years. I am seeking a new, all-purpose overcoat, as i can only stretch to one this season, which would go as well with black tie as the odd jacket and trouser ensembles that make up most of my day-to-day wardrobe. Which style/colour do you think would work best? "

You're likely to get the most use from another full length oxford gray single breasted.

From Simon
"I am wearing a silk velvet smoking jacket to an evening event in the near future and I want to wear a cravat under my white shirt. What knot should I choose?

The tied ascot is worn under your open collar shirt so that an inch of silk fills the tie space. Instructions for tieing a an ascot/cravate are here.



From Joacim
"I got a new job today, starting Monday, and from what I understand everyone wears suits. I'm planning on wearing basic navy and charcoal suits, but what about business shoes? I really hate the combination navy and black, and that goes for shoes as well. Would it be totally wrong to wear brown oxfords, chelsea boots (or any other unlaced kind of dress shoe) with navy and grey suits?"

I also prefer brown shoes to black with navy suits but that shouldn't be your first concern. Wear black oxfords the first few days while you get the lay of the land. Your priority should be to establish yourself as a serious player. You can wear brown shoes for decades once you've done that but it's easy to get categorized as a light weight and hard to overcome that first impression.

Reader Questions

From Michael
"I live in Southern California, where Orange, L.A. and San Bernardino counties meet, and I need to buy a couple of suits. I'm thinking of a single breasted in blue and a double-breasted in gray, both in three-season wool. My budget is $600-$700 per suit, and I like the way an Italian style suit looks, with its tighter fit, double vents and higher armholes. Where do you recommend I go?"

You'll get twice the suit for your money and look a lot better if you're willing to invest an extra hour or two in the process.

The next time you need some shirts or other basics, get sized in a quality Italian brand like Canali or Zegna at a nearby department store. Buy the shirts from the person that waited on you. Then go buy your suits on the Web at a 50-70% discount (Bluefly currently has some Canali for $700, for example). Have them tailored locally. The alterations should normally be less than $100 but could be twice that if you want working sleeve buttons.

Follow the same process if you prefer an American silhouette, but seek out Hickey Freeman instead of an Italian maker. Again, Bluefly has a selection for 50% off retail.

Reader Questions

From John
"I've been thinking of getting a pork pie hat made, and VS Custom Hats and Optimo in Chicago are the names that keep coming up. Would you mind giving me an idea of how the process works?

Specifically, my problem is that I don't know a heck of a lot about hats other than the basic shapes, so I don't know what all the options are. How much guidance do the makers provide for a neophyte?"

They are both quality makers with excellent service. Optimo is $500 for a beaver felt with pre-war ribbon. Fawcett is $305 for the same materials and the quality is very close (Optimos may be sewn a bit better, but I haven't noticed a difference).

Optimo's shapes are as conservative as London's James Lock. Fawcett's shapes are a touch more flamboyant, but he reigns in if you are clear that you want conservative. Fawcett sends you a conformer for an exact fit where Optimo conducts a phone call with you and then makes your hat in a standard size. On the other hand, Optimo has a wider selection of straws. Their Milan is particularly nice.

You won't go wrong with either maker.


From Chris
"I have a couple of questions about cool-weather fedoras:

1) How do I determine what style/shape/size brim and crown is best suited to my face? I have a longish face and a spacious forehead -- recommendations are welcome. My preference would be for a high-ish crown and very narrow brim, but this is based on little beyond personal taste.

2) What would be the most appropriate color if I was to buy a single hat for winter wear with several different dark suits? My instinct would be to lean towards mid-to-dark gray with a charcoal or black band.

3) When it comes right down to it, can a man in his mid-late 20s (in a rather poorly-dressed town like Washington DC) really pull off a fedora? (I know this sort of question is usually answered with something like "a man only looks good in clothes in which he's comfortable and confident" and all that, but... really?)."

I have found that no-one looks at our dress nearly as much as we think about it ourselves. By your second week with a fedora neither you nor passersby will notice.

If I had to choose one felt for the city it would be dark gray, unless I wore a charcoal overcoat every day. In that case I'd choose brown or navy.

From what you write, a normal brim width might help balance your face but any good hatmaker will help you to determine what will look best on you.

Reader Questions

From Koenraad
"How do you suggrest combining mobile phones with the wardrobe? Some fashion houses (Prada, Armani) have recently come with their own phone designs. Are there more options, including bespoke phones? How does one go about finding the right phone with one's outfit?"

I recommend you find one phone that suits your self-image. Unlike an accessory such as sun glasses, a cell phone is not something to be matched to the day's clothes. The address book and other content of a phone is too time-consuming (and important) to maintain in several devices.

Great phones look good, have features such as cameras built in and may offer extensive service packages for mobile lifestyles. For example, Vertu offers a line of very expensive phones (starting about $6,000 USD) made from beautiful materials that include a high level of service. One of the services is a concierge service called "Vertu Concierge". It is accessed through a "Concierge key" at the side of every phone. The service comprises a team of assistants to help the owner, 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Comes in handy when you miss your plane in Vienna.

Or, consider an Apple iPhone.

From Jon

"Is there a proper way to wear the tuxedo? I dug mine out the other night for a party and decided to scrap the vest as the button stance is relatively high on the jacket. This was fine when I was walking but left an expanse of shirt between my waist and my neck when I was sitting. Is a vest or cummerbund customary? And if one is wearing a vest does he follow the same logic as for a three piece suit and leave the jacket unbuttoned?"

The single breasted dinner jacket is often worn unbuttoned, which is why a vest or a cummerbund is integral to the look.

Reader Questions

From CJ
"My question concerns a debate a colleague and I are having. He believes that it is acceptable to wear cream trousers for the autumn and winter season, calling it 'winter white.' I believe very much to the contrary. A glass of Woodford Reserve is riding on the answer!"

Seasonal colors follow what we see in nature and there's plenty of white around once the snow begins to fall. So, were I you, I would pay up.

Of course, knowing that you can wear a color is not the same as having a place to wear it. I'd wear a navy jacket and winter white trousers on a sunny Sunday afternoon to a party in a winter garden. The green jacketed gentleman in the illustration is wearing his in a clubhouse on what looks like an autumnal day.

From Jocke
"Do you have any good picture examples of different ways to wear neckerchiefs? And also tips on where to buy them?"

I thought I could find a illustration that answered both of these questions but, alas, the men in the illustration are wearing an ascot in one case and toweling in the other. I recall there's a decent illustration in Flusser's Dressing the Man.

There are only two ways that I know of to wear neckerchiefs. Start with a silk square. If it's at least 36", you can roll it up and tie it as a four in hand. Or, if it's the more common 27" variety, roll it up and tie a square knot. The ends may be worn in or out of your open shirt collar, but in is a bit more discreet.

They are not on the web site but if you call the store you'll find that London's New & Lingwood carries a variety of 27" patterns for £75 apiece (about $150).

Reader Questions

From Chris
"I need a new set of dinner clothes and I've decided to bespeak one. What do I need to ask to ensure that I'm getting true bespoke and not "custom" or made to measure?"

I suggest you focus on the tailor's reputation and whether you like the work rather than the technical details. MTM with a hand sewn collar and shoulders is often a better product than the machine sewn bespoke I see coming out of some small tailor shops in the United States.


From Michael
"Is there a specific type of brush you recommend for suit care?"

In my opinion, the double sided Kent CC20 is the most useful brush for suits. £29.50 (about $60) directly from the maker.

Reader Questions

From Seth
"I'm a long-time fan of your blog, but this is my first time writing you. I am in Glasgow, Scotland for the next month, so I was wondering if you might suggest some good shopping spots while I'm here. I'd be interested in traditional things such as tweeds, sweaters, wellies, etc."

I'm not too knowledgeable about shopping in Glasgow itself but there's some great architecture. The photo is of Pollok House.

If you have access to a car, drive up to Golspie in the North (between Brora and Dornoch) and visit North Highland Tweed Co. which is selling what's left of the tweed stock of Hunters of Brora at great prices. No web site but the telephone was 01408 633294 or 01863 766908 last I knew. Highly recommended for cloth.

Also North is Johnston's of Elgin, the largest cashmere weaver. They have a factory store.

Finally, Begg Cashmere is in Ayr, not far southwest. I don't know if they have a factory store as I've not been there. If they do, it would be well worth a trip if only to see the paisley cashmere scarves. Expensive but gorgeous.

Finally, you can get respectable shetland prices direct from Spirit of Shetland without leaving your computer.

From Nicolaus

"I'm writing about arm holes in bespoke clothing. There's much ado about "high arm holes" on jackets in some of the forums I frequent. I wanted to know what is your opinion on the matter? Do high arm holes make wearing a jacket more comfortable and allow for more freedom of movement?"

Arm holes are a measure of precision tailoring. Larger armholes are easier on the tailor - Anderson & Sheppard famously went to larger armholes some years ago to make it easier to send jobs to the firm's outworkers - and it's hoped the customers won't notice.

High armholes are important however as they help the jacket ride the shoulders without the collar coming off the back of the neck.

Reader Questions

From Valerian

"I am a young professional and like my trousers at the hip instead of the waist. However, your blog prompted me to want braces instead of belts and I was wondering if trousers with braces need to have a higher waist or if I can wear them just as I wear my standard trousers."

You can wear hip-height trousers with braces and realize one benefit - your trousers will remain in place without periodic adjustment. That said, you may not want to convert your existing wardrobe. Trousers intended to be worn suspended should be about an inch larger in the waist so they can move freely as you do.

Following that logic myself years ago, I quickly realized that I might as well just get high waisted trousers in the first place. When they are waist-high they have a better line, and better finish the look of a suit, particularly a vested suit. Note how the high waisted gentleman in the illustration does not have a bit of shirt or a belt showing through the open quarters on his jacket.

Reader Questions

From Chris

"I have a friend getting married in two months. He is going to wear morning clothes (yeah!) but is having difficulty locating the proper neckwear. Cravats are hard to come by in number, it seems. Do you have suggestions?"

Macclesfield four in hands would be equally appropriate (that's what the Duke of Windsor wore to marry Wallis and HRH Prince Charles did the same when he married Camilla Parker Bowles) but there should be no problem securing cravats from New & Lingwood or Budd in London.

Reader Questions

From James

"I just bought a pair of very, very nice suede Italian slip ons and wonder whether it will be ok to wear them with a suit in September. I will be in Florida. Also do you know where i can order a couple of pairs of authentic silk socks?"

You couldn't choose a better venue for your shoes than Florida in September. Even HRH the Prince of Wales has been known to wear slip-ons with a suit in summer, and September means you can safely ignore those who claim that you should only wear suede this season or that, or who think that different colors are more appropriate in summer. It's all good.

I can't recommend silk socks for day wear as they tend to fall down unless you're wearing sock suspenders. High quality cotton is better, and there's a wider variety of patterns available. But if you must have silk, CustomShirt1 and Woods of Shropshire both carry a couple choices in high quality silk Pantherella socks.

From Krishan

"Thank you for the interesting and educational articles, and for the time you've taken to assemble the Visiting Artisans Calendar.

I was thinking of making some appointments with Huntsman and/or Anderson & Sheppard for their upcoming visits but am new to the bespoke process.

And for shoes it is between GJ Cleverley and Foster & Sons.

I am sure they are all very good, I was just wondering if you might have some tips and suggestions beyond those in your posts.

Plus I was hoping to get your thought on the production timeframes, what to expect from each producer, etc..."

The shoe part of your question is relatively easy. For bespoke shoes you're typically measured on the first visit, and fit on the second. The shoes are completed and shipped to you, and the maker has you wear them for a while. You bring them in to have them looked at on the third visit, and if all has gone well the maker will take another order from you at that point if you're so inclined.

Each shoemaker will provide any of the classic styles, but if you have your heart set on something unique to one of them you should get it from that maker as the others will be reluctant to copy it. Cleverley and Foster are both very high quality and, unless you get to London periodically and can continue the process there at your convenience, an important criteria should be the regularity of their visits. One that visits semi-annually is going to require nine months to a year for the initial delivery and as much as 18 months before signing off on the first pair.

Before choosing a tailor, you need to choose a silhouette. The two you've mentioned produce clothes that are about as different from each other as you can get on the Row. A&S makes a relatively unstructured jacket (the suits that I'm wearing on my web site are from A&S) that's popular with American customers. Huntsman, on the other hand, makes a very structured coat. You may also want to consider Poole, whose style is a bit more flexible than the other two and whose jackets fall somewhere in the middle. All three are good, but you should first decide what you think you want to look like and let that drive your choice.

If you don't get to London with any frequency, once you choose your silhouette (and that may require you to visit each of the candidates this time around before you make a selection), your next criteria should be the frequency of their visits. Your first suit will usually take one visit for measurement and two for fittings (usually only one fitting is required after the first suit, but sometimes it takes more).

A tailor like A&S who visits once a year is going to take longer to deliver completed suits unless you can meet them in another city during the year. I prefer men who visit two or three times, and I get to London for intermediate fittings in addition. The more frequency the better, in my opinion.

Reader Questions

From Richard
"I have been invited to a wedding which states "black tie." I don't have a dinner jacket but I have two options:

1. A vintage Kilgour burgundy smoking jacket which I would wear as a substitute for a dinner jacket

2. A single breasted peak lapel lounge suit (also Kilgour) which I would wear with a white shirt and houndstooth black and white tie (typically de rigueur at English weddings)

Any thoughts on preferred options? I am tending towards option 2 only because I think a smoking jacket might be too much."

If the wedding is in the evening, as it should be with the stated dress, I think your instincts are correct. A smoking jacket is to be worn at home, at your club, and, if you're young enough, maybe at a dance club with a pair of jeans. I'd call and get the host's opinion about how firmly they would like to hold you to black tie (your third option is to rent some) and if they are OK with it, wear the suit.

From Jim

"I live in Louisville Ky. And while our winters are mild, there are a few cold days. I need to replace some of my trousers. My question is can I wear a tropical wool weight trousers or should I purchase them in gabardine? I work in your typical business casual environment so my daily wear is a pair of trousers and a dress shirt. I believe the material is the same weight just different finish."

You don't have to choose. Gabardine is woven in weights as heavy as twelve ounces and as light as eight, which is the same as other tropical wools. I recommend you look for something in the middle. Ten ounce cloth, which is mid-weight, will be wearable in Louisville on all but the warmest days, and will serve you better when it's cool. It will feel heavier to your hand than tropical but not as heavy as a winter weight suit.

Reader Questions

From Tom

"Is it any more correct to wear white trousers, as opposed to cream, with black, navy and multi-striped regatta blazers?

I think Gene Kelly sported cream in 'An American In Paris,' but my idol Fred Astaire always seemed to favour white. Though, admittedly, it's hard to be sure, in some old B&W photos."

Apparel Arts called them white flannels in the copy accompanying this illustration, but they look cream to me. In addition to its good looks, cream doesn't show every spot quite as brilliantly as white.

From Duff

"How many ties does a man really need?"

Ignoring the very real temptation to over-think any question about wardrobe size, I've written that a man needs about two dozen. Twelve solids in various weaves, and twelve patterned. Check out the search function!