It's In Costco?

I emptied a bottle of Hermes Eau d'Orange Verte scent recently, and set out to replace it with something that lasts more than a couple of hours after application. My search involved about a dozen trial sizes from the ladies at The Perfumed Court, and in due time I settled on Creed's Original Vetiver. OV is bergamot, ginger and mandarin with middle notes of vetiver, iris and sandalwood that dries down to musk and ambergris. The better half approved.

When I went to buy a bottle, I found it online at the usual places. Bergdorf Goodman. Nieman Marcus. Discounted at Amazon and a dozen other outlets for less than $120 for four ounces (120ml). And then I noticed it at Costco. Costco! The warehouse store chain. Which admits that it "is not an 'authorized' dealer of the merchandise."

I wonder whether Olivier Creed thinks having his products in Costco helps or hurts his brand but that's not really the point. I didn't plan to smell myself coming and going so we're back to square one.

The Scent Of Your Handkerchief

Scent is better on a handkerchief than on the body. To see what I mean, try this simple test. Spray eau de cologne into the air, walk into the cloud and wait ten minutes. Much of the time, there'll be no discernable scent remaining, which does no good.

On the other hand, a scent remains fresh all day after it's sprayed into a handkerchief. Carried in a side pocket it doesn't offend people who dislike perfume. And it doesn't interact with your body chemistry, so it smells as it was intended to be smelled. Just open the handkerchief for a pleasant interaction.


During the day, a light fragrance like Acqua di Parma Colonia seems like a good choice. The lemony scent with a floral undertone hasn't changed since its origination in 1916, and, unlike many other good things, it's widely available. About $65 per 1.7 oz.

For evening, consider Creed's Vintage Tabarome, a leather and tobacco power scent that was originally commissioned for England's King George IV. Part of Creed's Private Collection, it's difficult to find in quantities smaller than 8.4 ounces (that's about a five year supply unless it's used for bathing), but the eBay wholesaler Perfume Wizdome sells it decanted into 2.5 ounce bottles priced at $130. Be aware that most of what's out there is a newer version called Tabarome Millesime which is not the same scent.

When it comes to handkerchiefs, I like them in colored cotton like the ones in the photo at the top from Schweitzer Linens (on sale for $30 each). With a spray of scent.

The Smell of a Man

According to Esquire's Encyclopedia of 20th Century Men's Fashions, Puritan-influenced American men didn't wear scent a century ago. That made them late to the party as the great perfume houses were founded earlier than that. Creed, for example, has been owned by the same family since 1760.

Despite of America's late start, or perhaps because of it, film star Rudolph Valentino's masculinity was questioned during the 1920's because, among other faults, he wore a citrusy cologne. Fortunately, that implied connection had disappeared by 1965. Products for men went through an "It's OK if it smells like it came from a barber shop" phase followed by near complete acceptance.

Scents have a vocabulary all their own. Topnotes are the first smell that registers with the brain. Mid notes follow. They are the body of the scent that takes over after the initial smell dissipates. Finally, we detect the base, which is comprised of the fixatives used to hold and boost the strength of the earlier notes. Base notes are typically rich and slow to emerge. They evaporate slowly, and are responsible for the lingering scent of the fragrance.

My personal favorites include Penhaligon's Blenheim Bouquet for day wear ($90 for 100ml). It is delicate, with citrus and lavender on top, pine in the middle and a woody base. The scent is gone by end of day, leaving your skin ready for something else.

For evening, I like Creed's Green Irish Tweed (about $100 for four ounces - four ounces are about the same as 100ml - from various web sites). GIT has a base of ambergris and sandalwood, a middle of iris and violet, and a top of lemon and verbena. Technically it's a perfume and much more concentrated than a typical cologne, which may account for its more enduring scent.

Whatever scent you wear, it should be noticeable only inside an area extending about two feet around your physical self. If you are one of those men who can't smell himself when he's that discreet, sprinkle a drop or two inside your handkerchief at the beginning of the day and you'll get a reminder whenever you raise it to your face.