Seersucker Accompaniments

As a reader reminded me, it may still be cold in much of the country but in just a couple of weeks Easter will mark the start of seersucker suit season in the southern United States. It's a uniquely American suit, and one that lends itself to pairings with other items that tend to be more common in the States than elsewhere, from white bucks to madras neckties. And, since it's spring, don't forget to wear color.

Around the foot, color can come from a pair of hoop striped hose, or even some polka dots. Accompany the socks with a pair of white bucks, or brown and white spectators if the occasion is a weekend or the race track. In a business setting, turn down the volume with a pair of light tan oxfords like the ones in the photo.

At the neck, seersucker is often seen with a bowtie, in either silk or madras. Madras four in hands work well, as do silk knits and polka dotted silks with spots just a bit smaller than a dime - this is no time for too much discretion.

I believe that a man's shirt should be lighter than his suit, so I pair my seersucker with white shirts, or pale pastels. Depending on the color of the suit, cream, pale blue, gray, pink, and peach shirts can all play very satisfactory roles.

And then there's trouser support, which should be striped in my opinion. Whether barathea braces or surcingle belt, a little more color never hurt seersucker.

Unfortunately, for most of us it will be several more weeks before the weather warrants seersucker accompaniments.

The Last of the Seersucker

Initially I wasn't going to admit that it's me in this photo, snapped last week by marianneme at the Art Deco Society of California's Gatsby Summer Afternoon in Oakland, California. Not only do I not normally dress "deco" intentionally, I was photographed unawares and not in the best of moods despite the beautiful day. I'd arrived at the event with three ladies and had promptly lost track of all of them. And they had the corkscrew...

After consideration I decided I like the car as a background. Boater, spectator shoes in chestnut leather and pearl suede, seersucker double breasted, blue linen shirt, madras bow tie and similar, but not matching, argyle socks. With a seat stick.

The seersucker is ready for cleaning and storage for the season now, to be replaced in the active rotation by something tweed.

Reader Questions

From Nate


"I live in Maine, which is a fairly rural state, and I work in an IT environment where the dress code is barely above burlap sacks. Nonetheless, I grew up in a Southern tradition where one's mode of dress and the attention with which one presented oneself was highly valued. I would like to dress and present myself better, without upsetting the applecart of my office too badly.

"That said, I have a limited budget with which to work, and I can hardly afford bespoke clothes or shoes at this time. Are there any wardrobe pieces that are beyond the 'starting out' phase that would be particularly useful for someone like me, in a more casual environment in a rural, woodsy location?

"One other question, can one wear a seersucker suit coat with unmatching trousers, since it comes so close to looking like an odd jacket anyway?"

Jcusey, my fellow moderator on Ask Andy About Clothes, also works in IT and though he loves clothes it would be inappropriate for him to wear a suit every day. Instead, he's developed his interest in shoes, and has some from many of the world's great makers. When I've seen him he's been off duty, dressed in an odd jacket, flannels and a handsome pair of shoes from his collection. So that's something to consider. You could start by getting fitted for some cordovan Aldens and then look for them on sale. Or, the next time you get to Boston, get fitted for some Edward Greens and then wait for the semi-annual sale to buy a pair from the London store.

Taking another page from jcusey's book, you could think about acquiring a tweed jacket and a pair of flannel trousers. Then consider a high quality linen jacket and some summer trousers. When you are off work, they'll give you a way to express your interest in clothing without straying far from what's worn in your part of the country.

Finally, I probably wear the jacket to my seersucker suit with cream flannel or linen trousers more often than I wear it with the suit trousers it came with. So, yes, use it as an odd jacket.

Break Out the Seersucker!

Seersucker anyone? Today's running of the Kentucky Derby is cause to break out more than just mint juleps, Hot Brown sandwiches and chocolate bourbon pecan pie.

It's also a reason to resurrect the seersucker suit, white bucks, and perhaps even a ribbon belt and a bow tie, especially if they haven't seen duty since the end of last summer.

Light-weight cotton seersucker (the word originates from the Persian words "sheer o shakar" meaning "milk and sugar") was popularized for use as a material for mens' suits in 1929 after newspaper editor W.O. Saunders of Elizabeth City, New Jersey wore seersucker pajamas to promote his campaign for sensible summer suits. The resulting publicity started a trend that is with us still.

The seersucker-wearing man in the photo, by the way, is Ken Herman, the Washington-based reporter for Cox News whose press conference banter with U. S. President George W. Bush last year was probably seersucker's highest profile event in several decades.

Enjoy your mint juleps.