Reader Questions

From Franklin
Recently some of your essays have shown spectator shoes. Can you recommend a source for an affordable version?

The problem with inexpensive specs is that they tend to be made entirely of leather rather than the originals' leather and suede or canvas. The all leather look leaves a bit to be desired and, in my opinion, you should save your money until you can afford a mid-range spectator from a company like Crockett & Jones.

From Simon
I am about to get my first made to order shirt (either a key largo blue stripe with Windsor collar or a blue herringbone with white Windsor collar and white cuffs). As I will only wear this shirt with a suit or when I wear a tie, the question is regarding cuffs with links or buttons. I feel that buttons on a nice well cut shirt could look cheap. But I dislike a French cuff or oversized cuffs. What would you advise?

If you respect tradition, contrast collar shirts should always have turnback cuffs. I prefer that the cuffs are also white but that's optional.

Button cuffs are fine for everyday wear otherwise. No-one will think your shirt looks cheap because they see a button on your sleeve.

If you do get buttons, I recommend two of them on the cuff parallel to your arm. They hold the cuff a bit straighter and the look, in my opinion, is a bit more finished.

The Last of the Seersucker

Initially I wasn't going to admit that it's me in this photo, snapped last week by marianneme at the Art Deco Society of California's Gatsby Summer Afternoon in Oakland, California. Not only do I not normally dress "deco" intentionally, I was photographed unawares and not in the best of moods despite the beautiful day. I'd arrived at the event with three ladies and had promptly lost track of all of them. And they had the corkscrew...

After consideration I decided I like the car as a background. Boater, spectator shoes in chestnut leather and pearl suede, seersucker double breasted, blue linen shirt, madras bow tie and similar, but not matching, argyle socks. With a seat stick.

The seersucker is ready for cleaning and storage for the season now, to be replaced in the active rotation by something tweed.

Reader Questions

From Josepidal


"Does everyone have trouble completing an ensemble around spectator oxfords, an extremely casual color combination on an extremely formal shoe?"

Laced spectators are usually paired with light colored suits, or odd jackets and trousers. Cream or tan, light gray and light blue are all fine complements and I've worn a chestnut and pearl pair effectively with chocolate linen as well.

On the other hand, spectators are a bit too elegant for chinos and denim, and I don't think they work with dark suits.


From Andrew

"I recently had my first bespoke suit made and was so pleased with the results that I commissioned another. However, it is the selection of material that has given me the most trouble. I have a very difficult time selecting from the samples. It is very dificult to envision how an entire suit will look, how the fabric will drape, how the light will reflect off of it, and, quite frankly, what the color really is. Marching in to a local retailer is not much help either. While I might find a material I like, there is no guarantee my tailor will be able to match it. The best solution would seem to be to go to Savile Row where they can show me a bolt of cloth, or send me around the corner to Lesser or W. Bill. Failing that, what would you suggest?"


The first-time customer who is shown several hundred fabric books and asked to choose is going to be over-whelmed. No two ways about it.

Visiting cloth suppliers where you can see bolts will help, and that can be done in the U.S. and continental Europe as well as the UK. But it's also important do some research in advance and decide what you are seeking before you visit your tailor. If you know your next purchase should be a Fall weight navy suit with a little pattern, you eliminate the irrelevent 80% of the choices.

While you're learning, the best advice I can give you is to stick with the better suppliers. You are unlikely to be disappointed in the realization of a choice from sources like Lesser and Harrisons.

Good luck!